My New "Custom" brushes

T-Ram · 08-15-2008, 08:05 PM

Well guys, I'm not one to post here very often but I am a regular "lurker" and really appreciate all of the information available here at SRP. I was able to meet some of you at the last North Texas Gathering and after being inspired by Jockeys fine work on brushes I would like to share some of my work. Let me preface this with the disclaimer that up until about 6 weeks ago I had not touched a lathe in over 25 years. Found a 1949 Powr-Kraft lathe (sold by Montgomery Wards) powered by a "Craftsman" motor, oddly enough, on Craigslist for $75 and could not resist.

Additionally, I would not recommend Mesquite wood for anyone starting out turning or trying to pick it up again after so many years. The piece I had was like concrete and seemed to want to keep chipping with the grain.

Please pardon the poor quality of the pictures if I can even get them to show at all. They are not coming up in the "Preview Post" mode at all.

Both of these brushes are Mesquite with multiple coat of gloss Poly.

"Brush 1" was my first effort and I was really pleased with the simplicity and clean lines. Did have some minor chipping in the ridges that I added for grip, but could not make myself trash it after I had gotten it to that point. 20mm Silvertip knot

On Brush 2 - about halfway into the work I hit a void / check in the wood. Again, instead of trashing, I filled the void with multiple layers of shavings and CA. Was fairly pleased with the result. 24 mm Silvertip knot

I just started working last night on a piece of Cocobolo and I don't have anything finished yet, but some of the grain in the two handles I am working on is simply incredible. Ken, btw, the cocobolo is much easier to turn than the mesquite! :-)

Comments / Critique / Suggestions are always welcome.

Tony

jnich67 · 08-15-2008, 08:09 PM

Great stuff, Tony! keep 'em coming.

Jordan

jockeys · 08-15-2008, 08:31 PM

looks great, brother, let us know how the cocobolo handle turns out!

T-Ram · 08-15-2008, 08:40 PM

Thank you both!

Jockeys - I will definitely get pictures up of the cocobolo when done. Two handles are ready for final sanding and then finishing. The way the grain is there are some nice "bullseye" effects. Don't know if that is the correct term, but it's the best I could come up with until I get them done.

Tony

T-Ram · 08-15-2008, 10:32 PM

Still need more sanding and finish.

netsurfr · 08-15-2008, 10:47 PM

Very nice looking! Making me wish I had a lathe...

xChris · 08-15-2008, 10:47 PM

Those look pretty good. They remind me of an "Ace of Spades" shape. I think they will be comfortable during use.

jockeys · 08-15-2008, 10:54 PM

ooh, pretty!

Doc · 08-15-2008, 11:02 PM

any trouble working the cocobolla? I have heard you need a respirator to work it.

T-Ram · 08-15-2008, 11:19 PM

Doc,

Wore a dust mask and had no problems.......................................... of course, it WAS less than 24 hours ago!

Chris,

I know this is going to sound "hokey", but I have not tried for any traditional design in any of these. Especially with the mesquite, the wood just sort of took its own shape. With the cocobolo. so far, I just had a basic idea of length and circumference and then the grain really dictated the final shape. Many starts and stops of the lathe to check the grain revealed as I went along.

Tony

T-Ram · 08-28-2008, 02:17 PM

OK! Maybe I should move this to the "Workshop", but I need some help from someone who has worked with finishing cocobolo. I knew going in that this would be a challenge trying to get this to some water-resistant finish for a brush handle, but getting any kind of finish at all on these has been a nightmare. I figured I would put a couple of coats of CA and call it done, but getting any kind of smooth finish with CA has been next to impossible. When going over dried CA with 0000 steel wool I get back to bare wood in places. If CA left without any sanding / smothing, surface too rough for my taste.

CA only looks good, and is probably water-resistant, but not able to get it "smooth".

Had read that if sealed with CA you could overcoat with a poly. Poly would not dry.

Had read that if sealed with shellac you cuold overcoat with just about anything. Shellac not adhering evenly and very "cloudy" in places. Have not yet tried any overcoat as shellac is too ugly.

Anybody know anything about this stuff?

Thanks in advance for any help!
Tony

Oh and BTW........I personally have still had not problems working with cocobolo. Maybe I'm not allergic?

gssixgun · 08-28-2008, 03:08 PM

Cocobolo can be an oily wood, which means that it does not take to "Hard" finishes sometimes, if you check out the Bell Forest (vendor section) web site and hit the Cocobolo link they have some great ideas as how to cure that...
I am not sure how it would work on a brush handle, but I use tung oil as a finish for Cocobolo scales....

Beautiful handles BTW !!!!!

OLD_SCHOOL · 08-28-2008, 03:25 PM

I tried using a few finishes, and none would dry, they just stayed tacky for many days. I ended up just sanding to 2k and leaving. (Scales BTW) it seems water resistant enough, with the natural oils. I have looked at using pure oils, instead of finishing oils, but I haven't gotten round to it yet. When I do, I will be sure to post my results here.

T-Ram · 08-28-2008, 03:29 PM

Glen,

The Tung Oil dried and cured OK? I did not even try this because I thought the Oils from the wood would not "mix" and let the Tung Oil "cure". I have used Tung Oil on many Oak projects years ago and it is really easy to deal with. Just have never tried it on much other than really hard woods.

Old School, Thanks for the input!

Tony

kevint · 08-28-2008, 03:44 PM

Shellac from a can is such a pain. Making your own from flakes it usually works quite well, the more refined the better, button lac i believe it's called can leave a splotchy brownish surface; super blonde is nearly invisible- i only ever use a couple of thin coats.

Have you tried using a lacquer thinner wash on your cocoB? often this will do the trick, cleaning the oils well enough to allow gluing and finish.

my suggestions is to burnish the piece to a high polish whle spinning on the lathe, wipe it down with LT and dip it in "wipe on" poly let it drip and soak in a little and wipe it off. after that you can just wipe it on ... about 3 or 4 coats you end up with a nice looking rubbed oil finish that is way more protective than oils without the plastic coating look of thick polyurethane finish.

T-Ram · 08-28-2008, 04:03 PM

Tried lacquer thinner in front of the CA. Denatured alcohol in front of the shellac. And mineral spirits several times while sanding and between some coats.

CA provides a really nice looking (and I'm assuming durable) finish, just cannot get it on in a smooth coat. It is drying too quickly and as I try to smooth I make further faults.

Coated with CA and just looking from anywhere above 10" - 12 ", these things are stunning! But pick them up and they have way too many rough spots. Would not ever feel right in the hand.

kevint · 08-28-2008, 05:41 PM

? you lost me. Shellac from cans is well known to have curing problems. I've never been a fan of CA for much of anything

Can it not be sanded to smooth level coat? Did you try CA thinner on a rag while the piece is turning? that might smooth it out? Sorry you're having trouble