[Bruno]

Thanks again Tim.

I'll see if I can find a distributor of those grinders in Europe.
Maybe it would be a good idea to pay some more and get such a machine immediately.

If I can find local suppliers I will post links here. If I find another type of machine I'll ask advice first.

[murph]

I think you'll be lucky to find a European dealer. On another forum I visit people have turned to making their own because trying to get one is so difficultin Europe.

Maybe you'll find a local shop that will make a similar one for you?

[Lynn]

Originally Posted by Bruno

Thanks again Tim.

I'll see if I can find a distributor of those grinders in Europe.
Maybe it would be a good idea to pay some more and get such a machine immediately.

If I can find local suppliers I will post links here. If I find another type of machine I'll ask advice first.

Come on over Bruno, you can use mine........

Lynn

[Bruno]

Originally Posted by adjustme69

Come on over Bruno, you can use mine........

Lynn

Thanks for the offer. If I get to visit the US again I'll take you up on that.
Maybe next year I have to visit corp headquarters and I can make a little side trip...

[Bruno]

Originally Posted by murph

I think you'll be lucky to find a European dealer. On another forum I visit people have turned to making their own because trying to get one is so difficultin Europe.

Maybe you'll find a local shop that will make a similar one for you?

Actually I do know a guy who could help me make one of my own.

If I can get the wheels separately, and find a variable speed motor or a motor with variable transmission, then it could be far cheaper to make one of my own.
Tim is indeed right that there is nothing really fundamentally complex about those KMGs.

I just looked at the picture of the KMG again, and there is just one thing I don't understand: how does the belt stay on the wheels. I don't see gliders so I assume the drive and guiding wheel are slightly hollow.
Is that correct or is this thing just built to very tight tolerances?

[murph]

There are lots of plans and pics floating around. I don't know which are any good but a search on any knife forum will probably turn up some along the lines of
http://www.midwestknifemakers.com/vc...facturers_id=9
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...ProductID=2717
http://groups.msn.com/Homeorshopmade...s/shoebox.msnw

AFAIK and the belt just stays on once it's tracking properly and everything is well made. I think some wheels are crowned (and since rubber or some other softer substance is often used you could do this yourself) as belts will tend towards to highest part of a wheel iirc.

[Tim Zowada]

Bruno,

The spring under the top wheel provides belt tension.

The top wheel is slightly crowned, to keeep things roughly centered. Belts will tend to run tyowards the "high" side of a flat pully system. So the "high side" is in the middle here.

Precision belt tracking is provided by rocking the top pully.

Tim Z.

[Bruno]

Just got a reply from beaumont. You have to admire it really. It is terse to the point of conveying the message 'get lost' without actually being unfriendly. I'd almost call it a masterpiece in efficiency.

Hello Bruno, Thank you for the note.
I'm sorry but we do not export.

I have looked at local alternatives but anything I find is of industrial quality and freaking expensive. I think I'll start making a wooden prototype frame to try and come up with something. Once it looks like it might work I can build a metal frame.

[FiReSTaRT]

There are people in the US who will accept a package and ship it to your place. They charge $5+actual shipping for the service. Off a bike forum:

Here is his website:

http://canammailbox.tripod.com/rates.htm

and his info:
CAN-AM MAILBOX RENTAL
2315 Whirpool Street
Niagara Falls, NY 14305

Phone: (716) 284-6245
Email: canam@aol.com

Just give him a call. He is a pretty easy guy to deal with.

I don't see a problem with just shipping it off to Europe instead of Canada.

[PuFFaH]

I have used my wet stone grinder to regrind a rusty ebay razor. It worked better than I expected and very accurate with no heat build up. This machine will grind from a flat to a hollow grind on a 2" chisel in 10 minutes or so but can be made to cut quicker if dressed.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-T...rind-23500.htm

Fool proof but slow

PuFF

[Joe Chandler]

Originally Posted by Bruno

Actually I do know a guy who could help me make one of my own.

If I can get the wheels separately, and find a variable speed motor or a motor with variable transmission, then it could be far cheaper to make one of my own.
Tim is indeed right that there is nothing really fundamentally complex about those KMGs.

I just looked at the picture of the KMG again, and there is just one thing I don't understand: how does the belt stay on the wheels. I don't see gliders so I assume the drive and guiding wheel are slightly hollow.
Is that correct or is this thing just built to very tight tolerances?

It's built to very tight tolerances. I don't have a Bader, but I can't imagine anything better than my variable speed KMG. It's built like a tank. The drive and tracking wheels are slightly crowned and striated, as well.

[Joe Chandler]

Bruno, check out Wayne Goddard's "The Wonder of Knifemaking" and "The $50 Knife Shop". There are some great ideas in there for making your own grinder on the cheap, and most of the questions you've asked are answered there, in wonderful detail. It's almost like being in his shop...and if you wonder if he knows what he's talking about, I can assure you he does.

[spazola]

I have been looking at Wayne Goddard's books and my scrap/stuff pile and thinking I might be able to make a small belt grinder. What size contact wheels would you recommend for razors? Would you use the same size wheel on a full hollow and wedge?

Thinking about tinkering,

Charlie

[Joe Chandler]

Originally Posted by spazola

I have been looking at Wayne Goddard's books and my scrap/stuff pile and thinking I might be able to make a small belt grinder. What size contact wheels would you recommend for razors? Would you use the same size wheel on a full hollow and wedge?

Thinking about tinkering,

Charlie

I'm currently grinding on an 8-inch wheel. For the size razors I like, it gives me the best results. I'm a big fan of the single concave, but with a very thin edge. You get the stiffness of a wedge, but the ease of sharpening (almost) of a full hollow. I'd guess mine are around 1/3 hollow. A larger wheel will give a less radiused grind (flatter, less hollow). You'd need a couple different size smaller wheels for a full hollow.

[ucliker]

Heres another question what kind of buffer do you guys use? or do you use paste on belts

[Joe Chandler]

Originally Posted by ucliker

Heres another question what kind of buffer do you guys use? or do you use paste on belts

I use a converted bench grinder. 3450 rpm. Take the guards off and makes an acceptable buffer for light work, for cheap ($34). I also have a Sears buffer ($99). It works about the same as the converted grinder.

[edk442]

what type of wheel should be used in conjunction with a chrome oxide honing compound? (felt, spiral sewn cotton etc...)

[Bruno]

Thanks Joe. I will check out Wayne's books.

[Joe Chandler]

Originally Posted by edk442

what type of wheel should be used in conjunction with a chrome oxide honing compound? (felt, spiral sewn cotton etc...)

Really, it depends, but for most work I use an 8-inch spiral sewn (vs. concentric) cotton muslin wheel. It's relatively stiff, holds compound well, and is less apt to snatch the work piece out of your hands than a looser buff.

[mastermute]

Originally Posted by murph

I think you'll be lucky to find a European dealer.

Another Swedish grinder/beltsander:

http://www.nordellknives.com/eng/eng_bandslip.htm
(Prices in SEK)