[spazola]

All of this talk of steels and grinders has been fueling my desire to make a razor. I have been toying with the idea for quite awhile. I think I will order some 1095 and try a stock removal type blade. My problem is, what to use for a heat source to harden the blade. I was thinking of the one brick forge that is in W. Goddard’s book or some variation of a bean can forge. I do not want the best, but I would like something that will last for a few blades. I am looking for ideas.

If I get the razor making AD in the future I can upgrade. Right now I am just looking for an inexpensive way to make do.

Thanks

Charlie

[Chris L]

Originally Posted by spazola

All of this talk of steels and grinders has been fueling my desire to make a razor. I have been toying with the idea for quite awhile. I think I will order some 1095 and try a stock removal type blade. My problem is, what to use for a heat source to harden the blade. I was thinking of the one brick forge that is in W. Goddard’s book or some variation of a bean can forge. I do not want the best, but I would like something that will last for a few blades. I am looking for ideas.

If I get the razor making AD in the future I can upgrade. Right now I am just looking for an inexpensive way to make do.

Thanks

Charlie

Good luck, Charlie. The $50 Knife Shop is a great book. I picked myself up a copy just recently. Think of how many thousands of hobby knife makers there are in the U.S. alone. Razor making may just be the next outgrowth of that. I too have my "wheels turning". I live in an area of the U.S. that's known for quarrying granite. In that same book you mention, Goddard talks about a granite anvil rather than a steel anvil and said he really liked using one (no noise, solid as, well, a rock). I'd buy a granite hunk for sure to use as a forge if I get bitten by the bug.

I'm sure a few of the few that are making customs will chime in.

Chris L

[beardnomore]

I like the idea of using a granite stone for knife making, probably because of my close proximity to Granite Falls, MN.
See if you can find some fire brick for making a kiln, a forge is not going to melt them, and they are relativly cheap.

[JoshEarl]

The one-brick forge really works. Believe it or not, that's what I've been forging my blades in so far. I have a real propane forge on order that should be arriving next week. Yippee!

A one-brick forge will allow you to get small pieces of steel up to temperature for heat treating, forging and even forge-welding. I have done all three. Definitely spend the $30 for the Bernzomatic JTH7 torch. The smaller ones are a waste of money for this application.

You can get firebricks for the forge from Ellis Custom Knifeworks - Custom Knives, Straight Razors, Display Cases, and Refractory Supplies. Darren is the guy who's making my forge for me.

This tutorial shows how to make a two-brick forge that is MUCH better than the one-brick variety: Son of Two Brick Forge - British Blades :: Custom Knife Making

If you're primarily using the forge for heat-treating, make a bigger two-brick forge and put a piece of 2" iron pipe inside to even out the heat. One of the main problems with these forges is that they have an intense hot spot, which makes getting an even heat on a blade difficult.

Have fun!

Josh

[jockeys]

the time I tried my hand at this sort of thing (I was making knives), I used a tortilla cooker about 3 feet high and a shop vacuum for the forced induction. doesn't work at all with charcoal, you need real coal, but if you can get that, it works great and costs next to nothing.

neighborhood association wasn't real happy with me, but what are you gonna do?

[spazola]

Josh,
Thanks for the links and the ideas. I was wondering what a good source for soft fire bricks would be. The two brick forge is high on my list now.

Jockeys,
I thought that I was a master scrounger, I now see I have much to learn.
Forging in a tortilla maker, I bow to your scroungability.

Charlie

[Bruno]

That firebrick, isn't that the same as the standard Iton building blocks used in construction?
You should be able to get those in any DIY shop which has building materials.

EDIT: I forgot that in the US, building in bricks is done less than over here, so maybe you have to find a shop where they specialize in building materials

[beardnomore]

I have seen some setups that are relatively cheap, some ideas are shown on youtube.

YouTube - Greenpete's Knife Making pt1of4

this one is part one of four, shows what can be done with very little investment.
Cinderblocks are not going to work instead of firebrick. sometimes they explode when heated due to trapped moisture in them. even ebay has some firebrick if you can't locate some near you.

[JoshEarl]

There are two types of firebrick--hard and soft. The hard stuff isn't good for forge building, as it dissipates heat rather than retaining it.

The soft firebricks are almost like styrofoam; you can carve them with a spoon or dull knife. These retain and concentrate heat. I can touch the outside of my two-brick forge with my bare hand. I might get burned a little, but an inch away, the heat is over 2000 degrees F.

The soft bricks are sometimes available locally. Look under refractory supplies in the phone book. They are used for lining furnaces and kilns.

Josh

[barneycg]

Originally Posted by JoshEarl

If you're primarily using the forge for heat-treating, make a bigger two-brick forge and put a piece of 2" iron pipe inside to even out the heat. One of the main problems with these forges is that they have an intense hot spot, which makes getting an even heat on a blade difficult.

How does the iron pipe fit in? I envision cutting a section of pipe to the same length as the chamber and drilling a hole in it for the burner in the same place as it is in the brick ? The article you posted suggested using ITC-100 to line the chamber is the pipe a cheaper alternative ?

Barney

[JoshEarl]

No, the pipe doesn't have a hole in it at all. The pipe is about 1" smaller than the chamber in the forge. It shelters the blade from direct contact with the corrosive flame, and it spreads the heat out more evenly via conduction. I only do this for heat-treating. When I'm forging, I use the flame straight up.

The ITC-100 is a refractory coating that will make the forge more efficient and durable. It's not related to the pipe suggestion.

Josh

[beardnomore]

if you really want to go on the cheap I know a guy who uses yellow river clay instead of refactory
coating. this guy uses it in his cupola to melt iron for casting iron. he used it to line the bottom of the cupola and has to replace it every few times he uses the thing.

[spazola]

Originally Posted by beardnomore

if you really want to go on the cheap I know a guy who uses yellow river clay instead of refactory
coating. this guy uses it in his cupola to melt iron for casting iron. he used it to line the bottom of the cupola and has to replace it every few times he uses the thing.

I have been toying with and an idea like that also, I have been reading Dave Gingerys book on his charcoal foundry. He uses bentonite clay and sand to make the refactory lining.

I keep changing my mind from hand held propane torch and fire brick (s), to brake drum, to Gingery style.

I will see if I can get somthng working this weekend.

Charlie

[JoshEarl]

Clay is what many charcoal or coal forges are made out of, but I don't know how well it would work for propane. For a small burner, you might not ever get the clay up to temperature. Keep in mind that a small coal forge burns a lot hotter than many propane forges ever could.

I think it would require a really long time to heat up, and you'd waste a lot of propane. You can get all the refractory supplies you need for a smallish forge for less than $50, I think. Propane is about $20 for a 20 lb. tank for me, so I'd recoup that cost in a few months.

It's worth a shot, though; I'd love to hear the results.

Josh

[bg42]

I made forge out of an 18 wheeler brake drum,an angle grinder, mig welder and some pipe . the air supply is from an old reversable vacum cleaner
It will melt steel if you don`t keep an eye on it
kind regards Peter

[spazola]

Originally Posted by bg42

I made forge out of an 18 wheeler brake drum,an angle grinder, mig welder and some pipe . the air supply is from an old reversable vacum cleaner
It will melt steel if you don`t keep an eye on it
kind regards Peter

Peter,

What do you use as fuel?

Charlie

[JoshEarl]

Originally Posted by spazola

Peter,

What do you use as fuel?

Charlie

I'm guessing coal or charcoal?

Josh

[mastermute]

I'm just starting out and I annealed my bar in te woodburner overnight (as per "greenpete") and for "forging" the tail I used a butane/propane hand held burner. I'm lost right now for the heat treatment, but I think it'll involve a hairdryer and a charcoal bed, some piping and engine oil...

[bg42]

Originally Posted by spazola

Peter,

What do you use as fuel?

Charlie

I use coal or coak,with regards to coal the is two types, steaming coal and coaking coal of the two coaking coal is the best to use ,there is less ash and impurities but it is very hard to get hold of ,I have one garbage bin left I t is pouring here at the moment when I get a chance I will take some pics of the forge and post them
Kind regards
Peter

[Russel Baldridge]

Originally Posted by mastermute

I'm just starting out and I annealed my bar in te woodburner overnight (as per "greenpete") and for "forging" the tail I used a butane/propane hand held burner. I'm lost right now for the heat treatment, but I think it'll involve a hairdryer and a charcoal bed, some piping and engine oil...

You could probably get a decent heat treat with your propane burner setup, if your careful to heat the blade evenly.