[smythe]

I just picked up a frame back with removable blades from ebay. Never owned one before, but i was surprised at the smoothness of the shave.

Examining the razor its construction would suggest it be easier to manufacture than a regular concave straight. It interests me because I got four blades with the frame and I suspect there are three blades missing from a seven day set.

For a fixed blade the frame (spine) could be slotted just under the thickness of the blade, the frame heated so it expands, the blade is frozen so it contracts and the two fitted together. As the both reach room temp will form a permanent weld.
Or flat stock may simply be ground away to form a “T” cross section, hardened then finished… similar to razors made before concaving became the norm.

A removable could be made by slotting of the frame... a simple screw taped into the toe end for locking mechanism.

A blade pattern could be cut from sheet stock, tapered then hardened and tempered.
You could even have different profiled blades depending on your mood... Spike, Round, Square, Spanish, French... no limit... Did you say “seven days set”… “No problem you could have 24/7 blades right here…”

[randydance062449]

How would you slot the frame? A mill? OK, now the blade has a portion on the end that its into the frame. Again, a mill?

[JoshEarl]

I've been interested in making framebacks, but the only way I could figure that it would really work is if I had a mill and was good at using it. A true frameback is two pieces--the spine is separate and welded in place. It seems simpler to make, because you just flat-grind the blade and then attach a spine to set the honing angle. But I couldn't get past the issue of slotting the spine.

Mills are spendy, but I've had my eye on one for a while...

Josh

[spazola]

Here is how I cut the groove on the frameback that I am making. I clamped the die grinder in a piece of wood and used a fiber reinforced cut off wheel.

You could thin the cut off wheel with a Carborundum dressing stone if you wanted. You could also rig up a slitting saw on an arbor. Slitting saws are available in many widths. You could also grind the kerf off a hacksaw blade and rig up some guides.

Where there is a will there is a way. (mostly)

Charlie

[tjiscooler]

You have the best jigs!

[smythe]

Holey!!! Is that a home built slotting machine?

I was indeed thinking of a milling or slotting machine, but as Josh said, they are expensive (for me that is)… thought it best to visit a machine shop… only need to cut the shot.

But what looks like a “dremel like” flex shaft with a slitting saw… clamped in a slotted/drilled 2 by 4... and held together by a G clamp and a bench vice?..
What can I say…When you don’t have the machine to do the job, then build the machine that does the job… This is genius at work!.

This really cheered me up after an otherwise disastrous day (I broke 2 blades) … thanks for sharing….

And please post more pix of your progress.

[spazola]

Originally Posted by smythe

And please post more pix of your progress.

Here is a quick and dirty pic. I hardened and tempered the blade tonight and cleaned it up a little bit. The fit and finish are lacking, but I do not want to sink time into it until I know that it will work. I am in the process of setting the bevel now.

Charlie

[tjiscooler]

look great so far!

[mastermute]

That is so cool! I'm really impressed!

[smythe]

Looks like you pinned the blade to the frame...
What's the size of the blade? and Is the blade tapered?

Would love to hear the results of the shave.

[randydance062449]

That is really imaginative shop work, and the razor looks cool!

[spazola]

I pinned the blade to the frame with 1/16 brass rod, I counter sunk a little bit then peened and draw filed. The blade is about .040, it is a piece of an old hand saw. The blade sticks out of the frame between 5/8 and 3/4. I tapered the blade so that the bevel would not be too large. If I sharpen with tape on the spine it comes out to about 15.5 degrees.

So far I have had two shaves the first was mediocre because of my sharpening. The second was a good but not a great shave. I think one or two trips to the hone and I will have it dialed in. It looks promising.

If the razor holds up and performs well I will finish it proper and make a decent set of scales. I will also bed the blade in epoxy to seal out the water, it rusts really fast.

I am really excited about shaving with something that I made. If I were a kid I would stick to the refrigerator with a big ole magnet.

Charlie

[smythe]

Those scales are good for a what i think is temporary scales... gives it a "rustic" look.
The detailing on that razor is damn good... for a prototype.

Yes it looks like you will have to seal the joint...
If all goes well you may want to remove the blade and pour epoxy in the slot then seat the blade before it cures and re-pin for good measure. You may even wipe the exes epoxy along the joint to form a nice radius... (like grout between the corner tiles).

Old hand saw blade... now that sounds like good source stock for my ebay frame back... I know i have one in my tool box... thanks for the hint.

[Akady]

No I work with silver and not steel so this might not be an option, but what if you set something in the middle and folded the steal over to create the channel. does that make sense or do I need to open paint?

[tjiscooler]

I think that might work, it its flat and soft you can hammer it around the "blade" portion, you would have to harden and temper it too though, or it will grind away too fast while honing.