Question about Camellia Oil

KingHarvest · 08-28-2008, 12:34 AM

I put camellia oil on my razor after I shave. Should I wipe it off after a couple of minutes, wipe off right before I shave the next time, or not worry about it and just leave it on? Thanks.

OLD_SCHOOL · 08-28-2008, 12:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KingHarvest

I put camellia oil on my razor after I shave. Should I wipe it off after a couple of minutes, wipe off right before I shave the next time, or not worry about it and just leave it on? Thanks.

You want to leave it on until your ready to use the razor, then wipe it off prior to stropping.

kevint · 08-28-2008, 12:54 AM

How do you put it on? I wouldn't leave it dripping. I often put a drop or two on one side and wipe it with a piece of TP to cover the other, then smudge it down to get at the joint. all you need is a thin film

The idea of too much oil makes me wonder if there is any effect on celluloid from petroleum additives like mineral oil.

Lt.Arclight · 08-28-2008, 09:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevint

How do you put it on? I wouldn't leave it dripping. I often put a drop or two on one side and wipe it with a piece of TP to cover the other, then smudge it down to get at the joint. all you need is a thin film

The idea of too much oil makes me wonder if there is any effect on celluloid from petroleum additives like mineral oil.

Oil possibly damaging some scales is, at least IMO, a genuine concern. I use mineral oil on my carbon steel blades-yet it is only a VERY light coating and I make certain NOT to leave so much as to drip off the blade.I also use a natural chamois cloth to polish the blades prior to the light oiling.The chamois will remove many stains that may remain on the blade after use-but you must use caution not to polish the edge.Since the chamois also has natural oils, I find just wiping the blades down is sufficient if the razor is in my current rotation.

I store all my razors in a drawer,NOT in the bathroom,so excess humidity and moisture isn't a concern.

KingHarvest · 08-28-2008, 11:41 PM

Camellia oil isn't a mineral oil, though, correct?

OLD_SCHOOL · 08-28-2008, 11:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KingHarvest

Camellia oil isn't a mineral oil, though, correct?

No it's not, but it is mixed with mineral oil, which is why you can easily pick up a bottle for just a couple of dollars.

I have been trying some things out with 100% pure camellia oil, and the biggest problem I am finding is that it becomes sticky after about a week, if you don't use the razor during that time. Another probable reason for diluting with mineral oil.

kevint · 08-29-2008, 12:44 AM

Hi OS.
I never knew tsubaki would get gummy. I've only had the dilution. The first thought that occurred to me is, perhaps the addition of clove oil will prevent this from happening.

The old myth of why clove was added to sword oil is that it prevented confusion with the household cooking oil, which I always thought was somewhat preposterous.

DwarvenChef · 08-29-2008, 06:26 AM

I use this stuff like water

Any carbon steel that is not in full rotation is rubbed down with Camellia oil. Mineral oil works just as well, but is much thicker. So far my wood handles have not shown any adverse affects from this as well.

OLD_SCHOOL · 08-30-2008, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevint

Hi OS.
I never knew tsubaki would get gummy.

IIRC all plant oils become sticky/gummy, but the Tsubaki oil seems to only do so on blades. I only ever used it on bonsai pots because I use a different oil for my razors. Perhaps because the bonsai pots are exposed to the elements, the oil reacts in a different way, I'm not sure.

kevint · 08-30-2008, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DwarvenChef

I use this stuff like water

Any carbon steel that is not in full rotation is rubbed down with Camellia oil. Mineral oil works just as well, but is much thicker. So far my wood handles have not shown any adverse affects from this as well.

If need be your local pharmacist can order very thin mineral oil for you

kevint · 08-30-2008, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OLD_SCHOOL

IIRC all plant oils become sticky/gummy, but the Tsubaki oil seems to only do so on blades. I only ever used it on bonsai pots because I use a different oil for my razors. Perhaps because the bonsai pots are exposed to the elements, the oil reacts in a different way, I'm not sure.

I know you may have said in another post, but how much is a 500ml of tsubaki. I was hoping you might do an experiment, but I'd like to get some if you will help

netsurfr · 08-31-2008, 12:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OLD_SCHOOL

IIRC all plant oils become sticky/gummy, but the Tsubaki oil seems to only do so on blades. I only ever used it on bonsai pots because I use a different oil for my razors. Perhaps because the bonsai pots are exposed to the elements, the oil reacts in a different way, I'm not sure.

I'm interested. What oil do you use on your razors?

Neil Miller · 08-31-2008, 01:51 AM

I sometimes use 100%camellia oil, but find it quite thick. Japanese people use it on their skin - it doesn't have to be wiped off. It is skin friendly. I think it is quoted as the closest to natural skin oil - might be wrong though! I find that Ballistol is better - much thinner, better creep, can be drunk, does not have to be wiped off. Old barber manuals recommend castor oil - I haven't tried it, though.
Regards,
Neil.

Garrett · 08-31-2008, 05:58 PM

is thw camellia oil that you reference the same as the camellia oil that you buy for skin/hair at cosmetics stores? I was not sure if it was the right stuff so I did not buy it. Thanks.

Neil Miller · 09-01-2008, 04:00 PM

Hi Garrett - I'm pretty sure it is the same thing. You can even use the cooking oil variety of it. I reckon it could cost quite a bit more in a cosmetic store - try looking for some on Ebay. You only need a small quantity - 250mls goes a long, long way!

English · 09-01-2008, 04:16 PM

I use Camellia oil for five reasons:

It works.
It's safe.
It's been used in Asia (high humidity) as the go to oil to protect carbon steel for Centuries.
It washes off easily with warm water.
It's inexpensive.

OLD_SCHOOL · 09-02-2008, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by netsurfr

I'm interested. What oil do you use on your razors?

I hadn't paid much attention when I bought it, and the label came unstuck and disappeared, so I had to go to the shop, to find out what oil I bought. Turns out I bought Choji oil, which is for swords, but got ripped off quite badly.

Choji oil is 99% mineral with 1% clove oil. Something I could probably have made myself, had I had known better. I paid $18 for an 18ml bottle, that means $1 per ml.

Strange thing is though, it is a thick oil, on the same level as camellia oil for thickness. Today I am mildly p!ssed off.

I only bought the stinking stuff (actually it has no scent but you know what I mean) for my Tamahagane Iwasaki razors.

OLD_SCHOOL · 09-02-2008, 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevint

The old myth of why clove was added to sword oil is that it prevented confusion with the household cooking oil, which I always thought was somewhat preposterous.

I'd say that is definitely a myth, and is ludacris (sp?) I just paid attention to what I use, and its a mixture of 99% mineral to 1% clove oil. You cannot smell the clove oil, so there really would be no telling if you were going to mistake it in cooking. Not to mention, I think the Japanese had a little more common sense than to store sword oil with cooking oil eh.

kevint · 09-02-2008, 01:00 PM

hmmm, all I can say is $1ml oil definitely deserves a sword to go with it.

Is there in general only one viscosity available in pure camellia? I'd be interested to learn when and how the transition to mineral oil based choji occurred and why it seems to be so complete. Just seems rather odd from this side of the world- I seriously doubt anyone had mineral oil 500 years ago.

I don't think samurai would be easy going enough to have their swords all gummed up with tsubaki or oxidized by pure choji. The easy solution might just be frequent cleaning with tsubaki, and it's limitation led to a ready transition to mineral

OLD_SCHOOL · 09-02-2008, 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevint

hmmm, all I can say is $1ml oil definitely deserves a sword to go with it.

Maybe if Pope Benedict XVI blended and blessed it himself, it would be worth $1 per ml.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevint

Is there in general only one viscosity available in pure camellia?

I have no idea.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevint

I'd be interested to learn when and how the transition to mineral oil based choji occurred and why it seems to be so complete. Just seems rather odd from this side of the world- I seriously doubt anyone had mineral oil 500 years ago.

I don't think samurai would be easy going enough to have their swords all gummed up with tsubaki or oxidized by pure choji. The easy solution might just be frequent cleaning with tsubaki, and it's limitation led to a ready transition to mineral

Perhaps their swords didn't have a chance to gum up. My test was based on a razor coated with a thin application and left for just under 2 weeks. I honestly couldn't even speculate.

Mineral oil I thought, was a pound a penny basically, its that cheap. That would make perfect sense as to the change over, coz pure Tsubaki oil is rather spendy, but not $1/ml spendy.