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Old 08-13-2008, 04:46 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Default Advice for shaver with some experience

Hey all,

I'm a barber of 2 years, and have been using disposable straight edge on myself ever since I started. Shaving others and myself has made me comfortable with the edge, but I want to move up.
Thankfully findg this site
Provides me some advice before I get into buying one. Since I’ve already gotten past the basic techniques, I’m not looking for a “beginner” blade.
While cost is not a huge issue, I want something PRACTICAL. A good all around razor. I’ve decided on DOVO and been looking at Bismark and Renaissance, but according to the Help Files Straight Razor History and Care, these razors are more collectors items and are not the most practical.
I have a full, thick, wiry beard and need something that shaves well. Any advice on Width, Metal, Brand Series?
Thank You


Thank you all for the responses. Unfortunatley, the barbers I work with use the same style straight edge that I use and probably haven't used a strop and stone for half a century (Most are elderly) So they're either too old to remember or too young to have never used one.

Since I know that DOVO is a trusted brand, My concern is width and metal. Since Carbon Steel dulls quicker would it be better to get stainless since I have a thicker beard? Would there be a significant difference between 5/8 and 6/8?

I've been looking into the "Ebony" Razor on VintageBlades, Anyone have some feedback on this?

Last edited by ProfessorShak; 08-13-2008 at 07:58 PM. Reason: UPDATE
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Old 08-13-2008, 05:05 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
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Nothing wrong with DOVO blades, I have several ranging from the budget model and upwards and they all shave well, which is the primary reason to buy a razor. With your beard type I would probably go for a larger blade 6/8 minimum.
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Old 08-13-2008, 05:52 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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Welcome. It's good to hear we have a new member actively engaged in the tonsorial arts.

Do you work with any veteran barbers who used to shave patrons with real straight razors? I ask because the generation of barbers within the last decade or more shave as you do, with disposable blades for obvious reasons or requirements.

Disposables don't have to be honed, straight razors do. If you work with veteran barbers, you're in luck. They can teach you how to hone whatever razor you do buy using barber hones, etc, and you'll be off to the races. If not, then you're among good company here and either learn how to hone your own razors, or pay someone here to do it for you.

Chris L
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Old 08-13-2008, 06:19 PM   #4 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProfessorShak View Post
Hey all,

I'm a barber of 2 years, and have been using disposable straight edge on myself ever since I started. Shaving others and myself has made me comfortable with the edge, but I want to move up.
Thankfully findg this site
Provides me some advice before I get into buying one. Since I’ve already gotten past the basic techniques, I’m not looking for a “beginner” blade.
While cost is not a huge issue, I want something PRACTICAL. A good all around razor. I’ve decided on DOVO and been looking at Bismark and Renaissance, but according to the Help Files Straight Razor History and Care, these razors are more collectors items and are not the most practical.
I have a full, thick, wiry beard and need something that shaves well. Any advice on Width, Metal, Brand Series?
Thank You
The Dovo Renaissance is one of my top razors. Check out my review in the review section of the forum. Definitely not a "collectors only" razor, this thing is a workhorse!
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Old 08-13-2008, 06:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
 
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All of the Old-world, still operational, razor brands all make nothing but high-end razors: Dovo, Thiers-Issard, Heribert Wacker, Maestro Livi. Fancy details, such as blade decoration and luxurious scale materials boost the price, but they don't make a razor less practical, only more beautiful, depending on taste of course. Some vendors sell NOS (new old stock) razors made by companies that stopped production at some point in history. Depending on what you can find, Revisor, Henckels (Friodur), Filharmonica, Heljestrand, Puma, Boker, Dorko, Bartmann, Dubbl' Duck are all of indisputable quality. Some of them are nearly impossible to find as NOS. There are many other brands, that you can buy in used stated and have restored by one of the craftsmen you can contact though this website. Wade & Butcher is a roaring name that jumps to mind, but there are countless others.

Based upon your heavy beard, I think you might benefit from buying one of the heavier grinds: 6/8 - quarter hollow grind, or 7/8 -full hollow grind. Those razors add a bit of inertia to the shave, allowing it for a steadier course through your wire bush.

Maybe the best way to approach this, is to borrow a few different types of razors and see what you like best, before making a final purchase. I'm pretty sure there are enough fine gentlemen present on this forum, willing to help a straight shaving barber out on that one. (that includes myself)

Best regards,
Bart.
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