The Angle of the Dangle

adampasternak · 10-02-2008, 05:46 PM

I know, I know the rule of thumb for razor/face angle is 30-45 degrees. For months I've been shaving with that angle, trying to keep it consistent while adjusting for the curvature of the face, neck, cheeks etc.

This week I began shaving with an extremely acute angle. I believe its probably no more than 10 degrees. And ...

Results are BBS. Going against the grain, especially under the nose, and neck, is a breeze now.

I don't know why this seems to be true for me. Could it be the angle at which hair grows out of one's skin? Some hair grows straight out at a 90 degree angle from the skin, and some probably much steeper. I think mine grows pretty steep, because once I switched into the 10 degree angle or so, my shaves became very very good. Even the Pinaud is not burning me any more!

I'm glad I broke this golden rule, so to speak. Everyone's face is different: so you identify the most likely variables to affect a shave, tweak them, and see what works. This worked for me. I'm glad I did it!

holli4pirating · 10-02-2008, 05:50 PM

The bit about a 30 degree angle isn't really a golden rule; it's more of a guideline that should be tweaked. Typically, a larger angle is harsher on the face and a smaller angle will pull. But the pulling depends on the angle of your hair (which is affected by how much you stretch), as well as the actual razor you use.

So, it's a good thing that you took the time to tweak your angle, and I'm glad you've found what works for you.

hoglahoo · 10-02-2008, 06:00 PM

When I shave with a wedge against the grain, I keep the blade flat on my face. I don't know why it does, but it works well for me. Except when the suction between my skin and blade traps the razor from moving...

holli4pirating · 10-02-2008, 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hoglahoo

When I shave with a wedge against the grain, I keep the blade flat on my face. I don't know why it does, but it works well for me. Except when the suction between my skin and blade traps the razor from moving...

I'm guessing it's because the angle between the hair and the blade is reduced when going against the grain. Whereas a 30 degree angle to your face might approach a 70 to 80 degree angle to the hair while going with the grain, you need a much lower blade to face angle to achieve the same blade to hair angle against the grain.

Seraphim · 10-02-2008, 06:29 PM

The "30 degree" guidline is a horrible suggestion, it is WAY too steep an angle.

I think someone just pulled that number out of the air, since it sounds pretty good. Horrible advice.

The blade should be no more than 1-2 spine widths off your face. I too started with trying for the 30 degree angle (using the razor scales as a point of reference) and my shaves were uncomfortable and I got many nicks and cuts, and my edge wore down quickly. Since going low, the shaves are great, and no nicks/cuts to speak of...

gssixgun · 10-02-2008, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seraphim

The "30 degree" guidline is a horrible suggestion, it is WAY too steep an angle.

I think someone just pulled that number out of the air, since it sounds pretty good. Horrible advice.

The blade should be no more than 1-2 spine widths off your face. I too started with trying for the 30 degree angle (using the razor scales as a point of reference) and my shaves were uncomfortable and I got many nicks and cuts, and my edge wore down quickly. Since going low, the shaves are great, and no nicks/cuts to speak of...

Huge +1 here I learned at 1 spine width about 15-18 degrees and have ended up at about 20 degrees, that is my most comfortable, for years....

chee16 · 10-02-2008, 06:45 PM

i actually just read about reducing the angle so gave it a try after doing a refresher honing and good stropping. it was much better. best shave i have ever had, not perfect by far but the best so far. now i get less scraping and nics. i thought before that the scraping was normal to a certain extent, but now i know a bit better.

joke1176 · 10-03-2008, 12:14 PM

Yeah, get rid of that 30d rule... I am another one who goes for 1-1.5x spine width or less....unless I am really trying to hit a problem spot ATG and then I will go up to about 30d, but that's an exception.

rsrick · 10-03-2008, 12:25 PM

I found that when I tried to pay attention to blade angle I had so-so results but when I moved to the "what feels good" angle, which I suspect is somewhere between 15 and 30 degrees, I get great shaves.

Lt.Arclight · 10-03-2008, 12:46 PM

Since the hair's angle is constantly changing-depending on WHERE you are shaving, I really think you should concentrate more on feel then the actual angle.

I find if you use short strokes, taking your time and concentrating on the sensation the razor is giving you-you won't have to consciously think about ANGLE.

Its like riding a bicycle, once you actually GET IT-you won't even have to think about it. It's one of those moments that REALLY get you hooked on using a Str8. RESPECT the edge-but don't fear it. Let the razor do the work. You'll know

-if the shave is uncomfortable and you'll blade is up to the task-your technique is wrong.PRACTICE,PRACTICE,PRACTICE

hoglahoo · 10-03-2008, 02:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lt.Arclight

Since the hair's angle is constantly changing-depending on WHERE you are shaving, I really think you should concentrate more on feel then the actual angle.
...
PRACTICE,PRACTICE,PRACTICE

Absolutely right!

I still haven't achieved the dexterity required to safely hold and read a protractor in one hand while shaving with a sharp object in the other. Practice is the best method

My new mantra:

1. Experiment
2. Don't kill yourself

Seraphim · 10-03-2008, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joke1176

Yeah, get rid of that 30d rule... I am another one who goes for 1-1.5x spine width or less....unless I am really trying to hit a problem spot ATG and then I will go up to about 30d, but that's an exception.

+1 I only go for a steeper angle when everything has been mowed down and I'm blade buffing a trouble spot or something...

Chris L · 10-03-2008, 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seraphim

The "30 degree" guidline is a horrible suggestion, it is WAY too steep an angle.

Quote:

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Huge +1 here I learned at 1 spine width about 15-18 degrees and have ended up at about 20 degrees, that is my most comfortable, for years....

Quote:

Originally Posted by joke1176

Yeah, get rid of that 30d rule...

Quote:

Originally Posted by rsrick

the "what feels good" angle, which I suspect is somewhere between 15 and 30 degrees, I get great shaves.

That makes at least five of us.

My hunch has been that a large number of newbies asking for help because they've butchered their faces are due, among other things to shaving with too steep of an angle.

Chris L

hoglahoo · 10-03-2008, 05:04 PM

Brad's razors in this thread are all angled between 7.7 and 9.7 degrees when lying flat on the face. So at least for those razors, one to two spiine widths off the face would be no less than 15.4 degrees and no more than 29.7 degrees off the face.

30 degrees would most likely be ~2 1/2 spine widths away from the face - good luck measuring that angle when rounding the chin though! I think a good conclusion to the results above are that when you shave by feel and begin seeing the results you like, you'll find that your razor angle is most often between that range of one or two spine widths off the face.

I've also seen the old razor ads and instructions that ask the reader to lay the razor flat on the face and then start moving the razor downward. What's wrong with that? slowly lift the spine off your face until it gives a comfortable swipe.

I remember reading about 30 degrees being an estimated shaving angle, and that actually did help me when I was starting out because I had the notion that I should be at a much higher angle. If I had read to start the razor flat on my face, I might have fared better in the beginning and probably no worse. I'll just go ahead and say that where I read that 30 degrees was the optimum angle between blade and skin was in The Art of the Straight Razor Shave. I think it was a great starting guide for me, but maybe that line in the guide ought to be revised

xman · 10-03-2008, 07:04 PM

I'm another that likes the 30º doorway for n00bs. It has long been mentioned that a shallower angle can work very well and it does for me too. Personally, I use different angles from about 10º - 30º. Do what works best.

X

gssixgun · 10-04-2008, 09:44 PM

I was thinking of this thread as I was reading razor boxes this morning...
I was storing the box to my latest RAD treatment when I noticed something written on the back of a Shumate "Tonso" box that reminded me of this thread... It said "This razor has an extremely finely ground blade, the Razor should be held completely flat against the face while shaving to achieve the closest shave possible" That got me to thinking perhaps the adjustment in shaving angle is also variable to the grind of the razor????

joke1176 · 10-04-2008, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gssixgun

I was thinking of this thread as I was reading razor boxes this morning...
I was storing the box to my latest RAD treatment when I noticed something written on the back of a Shumate "Tonso" box that reminded me of this thread... It said "This razor has an extremely finely ground blade, the Razor should be held completely flat against the face while shaving to achieve the closest shave possible" That got me to thinking perhaps the adjustment in shaving angle is also variable to the grind of the razor????

You know... I have a Shumate that says the same thing. I was going to post that very comment in this thread, but I decided not to muddy the waters even further with talk of grind.

Now that you have gone and done it for me, I will have to say: I think the more hollow the grind at the bevel, the lower the shaving angle. Muddy theory for all!

thebigspendur · 10-04-2008, 10:57 PM

I think, and I may be wrong here but when your first starting out and are really getting used to holding a straight a 30 degree angle is pretty neutral and easy to main. Trying to maintain a 15 degree angle I thing would be more difficult. Once you have more facility with the razor then the shallower angle is easier to maintain. Really when you think about it the steeper the angle the easier to hold the razer. Holding a razor at a ninety degree angle is really easy unfortunately the result of that ain't good.

So for the rookie 30 degrees is reasonable to maintain and still get a reasonable result with reasonable comfort.