[JoshEarl]

When I was starting out, I had lots of questions about pasted strops. I decided to paste one of my hanging strops today, so I thought I'd take the opportunity to put together a quick photo tutorial.

You can paste just about any type of strop. Paddle strops are the most common, but I've come to favor hanging strops. I like to paste one side of the linen on my hanging strops. If you need to touch up your razor, you just take the screw out, flip the linen around and do a few laps.

The advantage of pasted paddles is that the rigid surface makes it less likely that you'll have a mishap and wipe out the edge. Pasted hanging strops, though, are really fast to use. I find that pasted hanging strops are less likely to overhone an edge, and the edges to me seem to last longer than the edges from pasted paddles.

I'll be applying powdered chromium oxide to the horsehide side of my Tony Miller sharpening strop. The medium we'll use to get the powder onto the leather is strop dressing. This bottle came with my strop; I think Tony recommends Lexol. You could use neatsfoot oil or another leather conditoner to achieve the same thing.

[JoshEarl]

The untreated horsehide is almost slick to strop on--it should make a nice surface to apply the paste to. I think it's best to avoid trying to paste latigo, but most other leathers should work pretty well.

I put a few drops of strop dressing in my little mixing bowl. For some surfaces, like linen, I've used water instead of strop dressing to get the powder to adhere. I once pasted a balsa paddle using mineral oil, and it turned out pretty well.

I dip my finger in the dressing....

[JoshEarl]

And then dip it into the powdered abrasive.

My favorite paste is .5 micron chromium oxide powder from HandAmerican.com. I've used diamond pastes and Dovo's red and black pastes, but I always come back to the chromium oxide. It imparts a silky smoothness to the edge--it's the quickest route to that "velvet squeegie" effect you might have read about.

Diamond edges are sharp but harsher feeling to me. The Dovo pastes work well, but the black paste doesn't create quite as sharp of an edge in my opinion. I do still use it from time to time, as some razors just like it better...

I mix the powder into the dressing...

[JoshEarl]

Now this is important:

That green paint looks really purdy, doesn't it? Like finger paint, almost. It's really tempting to just start smearing it everywhere on your strop. My first few strops looked like pool tables--all nice and green and even.

And they dulled edges every time I used them. I couldn't get a decent shave off any of my pasted strops.

So, regardless of the type of paste you're applying, GO EASY. You can always add more later. I find that my favorite level of paste is where you can just barely tell it's pasted at all. A little abrasive goes a LONG way.

To avoid getting mesmerized by the fun green fingerpaint, I let my inner toddler draw a series of X's on the strop. Don't try to make them really heavy or even. Go lightly.

I was taking pictures while I was pasting, and I'm actually thinking I might have overdone this one a bit...

[JoshEarl]

Now we'll just smear the paste around a little bit. I like to add a little more to the edge of the strop on the razor side, if that makes sense. I want to make sure the heel and toe are going to hit pasted leather, too.

[JoshEarl]

Here's the finished strop. The paste looks heavier than it actually is, because the strop dressing hasn't absorbed yet.

I'm also including photos of my pasted paddle and a pasted linen strop. See how you can barely see the green on the linen? That's ideal. (A lot of the color you see on the paddle is actually metal residue, not paste.)

This same basic approach works well for other pastes as well. For diamond compounds, which come in paste form already, I'd recommend applying a tiny dab every few inches, then smearing it around. Remember, you don't want to cover the surface, so a little bit is all you need.

[JoshEarl]

After lots of experimenting, I find that a pasted hanging strop works best for maintaining my own razors. (I go easy on the pastes for razors sent to me for honing. Not everybody likes pasted strop edges--some guys find they don't last as long.)

Coming off the coticule, I might do 10 to 40 laps on a pasted hanging strop. With so little paste on the strop, I don't have trouble with overhoning or killing the edge.

When I need a touchup, five to 10 quick laps will get me shaving happily again.

Josh

[SIB]

I really apreciate you taking the time to post this man, i was really looking forward to it.!
Thank you.

[JoshEarl]

You're welcome...

Another frequently asked question is, "How often do you have to reapply paste?"

The answer is, "Not very often." I've been using that pasted paddle for close to a year now without repasting it. The linen strop has been in use for about six months. I've put more miles on both than most guys will in three or four years.

When the paste looks completely black and seems to stop working, you might need to apply some more. Before you do that, you might try rubbing a little strop conditioner into the strop. Sometimes that will move the abrasive around and refresh the surface a bit without having to apply more gunk. Less is more.

Josh

[Wildtim]

Josh how does the pasted linen compare to the paddle, or leather?
Any difference in the edge achieved.
Don't tell me stroke differences that won't help (varies to much by amount of paste) but do you find one pasted surface gives you a better edge consistently than another.

[Joelski78]

Thank you very beaucoup for your tutorial !!

I have a loom strop which I turned in to a two sided/colored biliard table hiding all the leather under a nice layer of Dovo pastes (one side green and one red).

Neither the loom strop or the Dovo pastes came with instructions. I chose to experiment and apply an even coating which looks nice but I never had any satisfactory results using it, and also had the impression that it was dulling my razors.

Any suggestions to undo my loom strop from its billiard table cloth ?

[JoshEarl]

I don't use the paddle to maintain edges very much, so it's hard to compare. But the linen does a great job.

Sometimes I will do my usual daily stropping on the leather, then go to the pasted linen for two or three strokes, then shave. If I do this every day the edge stays at peak sharpness instead of gradually dulling and needing to be refreshed.

It might seem excessive, but you only end up doing 20 laps a week, which isn't really too too bad. I'm sure this wears the razor faster, but for my beard this is sometimes the only way to go...

Anyway, the point is that I can even stick in a couple of laps on the linen after the leather and immediately before shaving and get a great edge.

I haven't tried a pasted hanging leather strop yet, so I'll have to report back on how this horsehide strop compares.

Josh

[JoshEarl]

Originally Posted by Joelski78

Thank you very beaucoup for your tutorial !!

I have a loom strop which I turned in to a two sided/colored biliard table hiding all the leather under a nice layer of Dovo pastes (one side green and one red).

Neither the loom strop or the Dovo pastes came with instructions. I chose to experiment and apply an even coating which looks nice but I never had any satisfactory results using it, and also had the impression that it was dulling my razors.

Any suggestions to undo my loom strop from its billiard table cloth ?

I feel your pain. You might try to use some strop dressing on a rag to scrub off some of the paste. Better yet would be saddle soap or a similar leather cleaner. There's a chance this would change the drag of the leather, but since you're not getting much use out of it now anyway, what's the harm?

Josh

[Joelski78]

Thank you for your suggestion.

I think that I will try to dilute the paste layer with some kind of oil and try whiping it off with a cloth before, if that won't work I'll clean it completely.

[Johnny J]

I can't remember where I read this tip, but I've had good luck cleaning gunk off of leather strops using that Fast Orange hand cleaner that mechanics use. It has no petroleum distillates, & it's made for skin. Leather is skin. However, on veg-tanned leather, it changes the color & greatly reduces the draw (my guess is it removes oils from the leather) so you will have to rub in a little mineral oil after it dries to soften it & get it to draw again. The color change is permanent.

[spazola]

Great post, I have a hard time with the "if a little is good then alot must be great concept" This post helps pound that idea into my little head.

good work

Charlie

[Tony Miller]

Josh,
Great tutorial! I get asked these questions daily and you have really put together a nice lesson.

Less is more. When I pre-paste I typically add more than needed as guys tend to think they got shorted if one were to put the optimal amount on a paddle. I do find simply scrubing off the exces chromium with a dry rag works well and one can fine tune fron a medium even coat down to a bare hint of paste with a few scrubbings.

Again, great job here. Maybe this could be made into a sticky?

Tony

[figaro]

Josh,

Thanks for your tutorial.

Tony,

Thanks for your additional comments.

[Doc]

great topic needs a bump