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06-29-2008, 03:58 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Status: Senior Member & Stropmeister
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Strop Widths? Is wide really better than narrow ?
I may have asked this one a while back about hones and narrow vs. wide.
I know most people seem to go for really wide strops but what are your reasons for this?
Most would agree the X-pattern is the way to go so why not a 2 1/2" or even a 2" as many European strops are?
Dovo and Jemico products mostly range from 1 1/2" to 2" with each offering a single 3" or so model.
Illinois has 2", 2 1/4" (835?) and 2 1/2" models. Most vintage USA based models I have seen or owned were 2 1/2".
A 3" is perfect for those who want an easy straight up and back stroke and my guess is that is why Dovo and Jemico started doing it...or maybe our USA, "bigger is better" mentality.
I have talked with a few fellows who would really like a European style 2" wide strop.
My personal tastes are with 2 1/2" models. You have to do an X-pattern on them and I simply like the proportion of them....long and quite narrow just looks "right" to me.
I know some will argue that wider may cup easier than narrow but much of that seems to be related to materials rather than width. Oil/waxed/cordovan type tans seem to resist moisture enough they don't move much due to humidity and stay flat. If they do curl they are moldable enough you can correct them easy enough. Natural tanned leathers seem to want to cup as soon as it gets humid . Support hardware on each ends helps a little but it is a long distance down the length of a strop and the hardware really only supports the last few inches.
So.....why wide for you or why narrow?
Tony
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The Heirloom Razor Strop Company ~ Horsehide ~ Latigo ~ Synthetic/Vegan ~
Last edited by Tony Miller; 06-29-2008 at 04:01 PM.
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06-29-2008, 04:22 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Status: Usagi Yojimbo 
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I used a 2 1/2 for many years, and when I found this sight I decided to try a new strop, so I bought a Tony Miller 3 inch wide strop! It was a beautiful piece of work, but I quickly reverted back to a 2 1/2 model! It seems an easier size to deal with, it forces an X pattern, which assures good contact all the way across the blade!
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06-29-2008, 04:30 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Status: Metropolis Watches Over Me
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When I built mine, I made sure it wa 3" so I wouldn't have to do an x-pattern. Seems to be working just fine.
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06-29-2008, 04:52 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Status: I hone therefore I shave
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2-2,5" is just about my size as - just like JMS - it forces me to use an X-pattern which will make sure I catch every part of the blade - even on "smiling" ones.
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06-29-2008, 04:53 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Status: Usagi Yojimbo 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marosell
When I built mine, I made sure it wa 3" so I wouldn't have to do an x-pattern. Seems to be working just fine.
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I didn't actually go back to the 2 1/2 because it made better contact, I went back because I kept doing the x pattern anyways and realized quickly that I just prefer the 2 1/2 model!
I still use the 3 inch model, but only for knives!
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"Those who beat swords into plowshares usually end up plowing for those who don't." -Ben Franklin-
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06-29-2008, 04:58 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Status: Senior Member & Stropmeister
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I did always wonder how many guys made their first nicks on a strop trying to learn the X-pattern. The sliding side to side, coordinationing with stopping the strop, rolling the blade, sliding, etc.... vs. up and back which may be a much more simple motion.
I remember "The Great Experiment" about stropping, etc.... maybe there is another Great Experiment brewing out there...X-pattern vs. up and back only.
Tony
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06-29-2008, 05:08 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Status: Electric Razor Aficionado
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I've tried a variety of sizes and the width never really seemed to matter much to the razor. Narrow strops (like short strops) need more laps to get the job done, but this doesn't really seem to be much of a factor until you get down to the 1 1/2" width.
Now on paddle strops I definitely prefer the 3" or 2 3/4 " widths, but on hanging strops the natural flexibility seems to make them more forgiving of sleepy stropping.
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06-29-2008, 05:16 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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Status: Senior Member & Stropmeister
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mparker762
Electric Razor Aficionado
Huh ??!!
Tony
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The Heirloom Razor Strop Company ~ Horsehide ~ Latigo ~ Synthetic/Vegan ~
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06-29-2008, 05:17 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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Status: Velo Shaver
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How do you stop those electrics? x-pattern? 
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06-29-2008, 05:22 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Status: Moderator/Hone student
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I am a new TM owner (won it at the SE get together, Thanks again Tony!). I have an Illinois 827 russian imperial (about 2.5") and the TM is a 3" buffed horsehide/linen. I started out going up and back on the Illinois as I had a shorter bladed razor and it worked out fine. As I learned to refine my stropping and acquired different razors, I started using the X-pattern. Now that I have the 3" strop, I still use the X-pattern but it is shallower. I am still learning to read the feedback on the horsehide as it has much less draw than the russian imperial. I feel as though both have different uses and I am not sure that the width matters too much to my results. I do now angle the blade about 10-15 degrees heel to toe when I strop and still use the X-pattern regardless of the width. I think I will try and teach myself to strop left handed and use the other edge of my strops too, that may be the way for me to realize the true potential of having a wider strop. Kind of like rotating my tires, no?
Just rambling thoughts as always...
Last edited by sicboater; 06-29-2008 at 05:23 PM.
Reason: Grammer!
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06-29-2008, 05:26 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Status: Electric Razor Aficionado
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Nope, I always strop my Electrics in a straight line. Up and down on a 3" wide strop, and diagonally across on a narrower one.
From Uniclectica:
ELECTRIC
Used by Friedman & Lauterjung, New York City ca. 1873-1890. Moved to Newark, New Jersey from ca 1890-1910. Moved to Walden, New York ca. 1910-1920
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06-29-2008, 05:29 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Status: Velo Shaver
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Too cool.. thanks.
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06-29-2008, 05:54 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Status: Torchwood 4
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I own a TM Latigo 2 1/2 with linen; I didn't order the practising strop and stropped straight ahead with an X pattern. I must say that I nicked it a few times, but nothing deep and always at the beginning or at the end of the stroke - so as long as I don't nick it in the centre, I can decrease the stropping area. Maybe this wouldn't have happen with a 3" as it seems to result from a bad orientation of the leather when stropping.
But more stropping, the better the technique... and the strop will survive with some character and wounds - I don't nick it any more. And - if I am not mistaken - one could order the strop parts separately from Tony and replace only the leather side... or buy a horsehide new strop... or why not a horsehide/latigo and a cotton/linen 
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06-29-2008, 06:47 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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Status: Senior Member & Stropmeister
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ockham
And - if I am not mistaken - one could order the strop parts separately from Tony and replace only the leather side... or buy a horsehide new strop... or why not a horsehide/latigo and a cotton/linen 
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Yep, available as replacements. I do all those combos at time.
Tony
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06-29-2008, 06:48 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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Status: Senior Member & Stropmeister
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sicboater
I think I will try and teach myself to strop left handed and use the other edge of my strops too, that may be the way for me to realize the true potential of having a wider strop. Kind of like rotating my tires, no?
Just rambling thoughts as always...
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Yikes! I better start on that replacement horsehide piece on Monday
Tony
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06-29-2008, 07:06 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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Status: Moderator/Hone student
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Miller
Yikes! I better start on that replacement horsehide piece on Monday
Tony
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HA! I DO have the practice strop! No worries Tony!
 I was wondering if there was a way to increase the draw on the buffed Horsehide without changing the surface texture. Any thoughts?
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06-30-2008, 11:53 AM
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#17 (permalink)
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Status: Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMS
I used a 2 1/2 for many years, and when I found this sight I decided to try a new strop, so I bought a Tony Miller 3 inch wide strop! It was a beautiful piece of work, but I quickly reverted back to a 2 1/2 model! It seems an easier size to deal with, it forces an X pattern, which assures good contact all the way across the blade!
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+1
I only have a TM 2.5 but I totally agree. The width makes you pay attention to your blade contact and stropping technique. I usually strop with the x-pattern, heel leading and the 2.5 inches seems the perfect size for this.
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06-30-2008, 12:14 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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Status: Senior Member
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Previous to my Tony Miller 3" wide strop, I had been using a Dovo 2" wide strop - which, granted, forced me to learn and use the x-pattern strop technique. That said, I prefer the 3" wide model because I believe it supports the blade better and doesn't allow for any rocking side-to-side. My shaves have been greatly improved since the arrival of my new strop, and I couldn't think to go to anything narrower (or wider) from now on. I'm 100% sold on the 3" wide strops.
Mark
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06-30-2008, 01:43 PM
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#19 (permalink)
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Same experience as Mark.
I used a 2" Russian Dovo for years and then I purchased a 3" ,"Old Dog Hand American" strop.
The 3" works better IMHO. It's not just the width, I think the length of at least 24" usable strop also matters.
I'd actually rate the size of the strop as more important than the type of the leather.
I suppose if you have short arms or long arms it must make a difference.
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06-30-2008, 02:07 PM
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#20 (permalink)
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I use an old Red Imp 2 1/2 and a 3" horse/latigo. I start out on the red imp's linen and leather and go to the latigo and then the smooth horse. I suppose I would have been fine with the Tony Miller strop being 2 1/2 but I like the 3" width and the strop is luxurious. Unusual to find a modern product that exceeds the quality of the vintage examples but Tony has done it IMO.
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Regards,
Jimmy
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