[bevansmw]

I've been using WD-40 since I read in another post where gsixxsgun recommended it, with the wet/dry norton sandpaper. Was a little hard to find all of the grits, but I got them all at once the other day from a woodcraft.

[Bruno]

Actually, WD-40 is an interesting idea.

I don't use water because that is very risky at lower grits.

With 240 or even 400 - 600 grit, you leave significant scratch lines that will grab water. If you leve the blade exposed to air even a very short time, it will start to rust under your very nose.

I once used a small wet grinder to experiment with, and even though I was continuously working the blade, it had oxidized patches when I was done. The oxidation ran deep in the scratch lines, and took a lot of extra sanding to get out.

I'll give WD-40 a try, but I normally use my sandpaper dry.

[CRuzin]

Originally Posted by Bruno

With 240 or even 400 - 600 grit, you leave significant scratch lines that will grab water. If you leve the blade exposed to air even a very short time, it will start to rust under your very nose.

That happened to me the other night. I had just finished wet sanding with 220 grit. I got out some 400, and by the time I had cut a strip for my hand sander, the blade had fine rust all over it! It's amazing how fast rust can form.

[Sancho]

I've been using mineral oil to wet sand and am very happy with the results.

[Markopolo]

Well....All I've got to say is: "I sure wish I saw THIS post two months ago" ! ! !

I've got two razors (total rust) that I'm bound & determined to restore myself.

Now I realize my two MAJOR mistakes are:

#1 - Using my fingers, rather than a wood block......and
#2 - Being a little "gun-shy" on the paper....(I'm using #400)

THANKS BRUNO !.....You've made my life easier ALREADY !

Marko....

[red]

I really like the WD-40, really makes sanding smoother and easier and kinda coats the blade so it wont rust when you turn your back.

[onimaru55]

WD-40 is great for sanding but if you prefer water or are allergic to petrochemicals a little bicarb soda in the water will prevent rust. It is used by Japanese sword polishers.

[tris_d]

Hi...

I am new here.. and I only have 1 month of "straight" shaving under my belt. Both myself and my father have done some of this work on ebay razors and I wine corks have proven very useful tools indeed. I am also a great fan of 0000 wire wool... it is great for burnishing, especially with a bit of compound on it.

I have also found that grapeseed oil is a suburb lubricant for this type of job. It is pretty much odourless, will not rust the blade and stops the paper clogging.

[Iron_Beard]

Originally Posted by tris_d

... grapeseed oil is a suburb lubricant for this type of job...

The problem is you have to commute a ways to get the stuff and it smells like soccer moms.

Sorry tris_d. Sometimes I can't help myself. Well, actually most of the time...

[tris_d]

Originally Posted by Iron_Beard

The problem is you have to commute a ways to get the stuff and it smells like soccer moms.

Sorry tris_d. Sometimes I can't help myself. Well, actually most of the time...

LOL...

I get grapeseed from ASDA (English supermarket run by Wallmart) it is with all the other cooking oils. The real key is to soak your paper in what ever you are using for at least an hour. It cuts much better and will last a lot lot longer. It is surprising how much wet sanding you can do with just one sheet before it is worn out.

I actually stumbled into it as we had to get some to take my 5 month old son to baby massage. It is very lubricating and I have even been using it as a shaving oil for my third pass with great results.

It is like the green paste. Chromium Dioxide is a widely used artists pigment and you can get a significant amount of it for not much cash in comparison to buying a tiny tubr of paste. Now if I could find out what else is in the paste....

[Bruno]

Originally Posted by tris_d

It is like the green paste. Chromium Dioxide is a widely used artists pigment and you can get a significant amount of it for not much cash in comparison to buying a tiny tubr of paste. Now if I could find out what else is in the paste....

I thought it was Cr2O3?

anyway, yes you can get chromium oxide for cheap. I got a brick sized piece which is used to load polishing steel on a buffer wheel.
But the grit size is 15 micron instead of 0.5 micron, so it is completely worthless for the purpose of polishing a razor's edge. I suspect the same is true for artists pigment.

The tiny tubes contain only the chromium oxide in grease. It's just a LOT finer than what is used in other applications, and thus more expensive.

[zepplin]

Originally Posted by Philadelph

This is about the simplest thing I have found to help sanding, yet has helped tremendously:

Contour Sanding Pads - Woodcraft.com

They are basically what Bruno uses, but much smaller (still fit the fingers great! Comfortable), quicker, easier, and they give more options. I have one set of these things and I cannot find a shape that I don't have one of these for. Really, check them out. I have a Woodcraft by me, so I just went there...

Thanks, Alex (Philly) -

I just ordered a set!

Steve

[tjiscooler]

Do you really need a sanding block?? I used my bare hands and got a nice polish on the blade Im working on. I even used just my hand when i polished with the Flitz. If it makes it easier of has better results ill try it, please tell me you thoughts on this.

[Seraphim]

A sanding block takes alot of the load off of your finger tendons. It also gives an added layer of protection between you and that sandpaper-sharpened edge!

[ByronTodd]

Originally Posted by Seraphim

A sanding block takes alot of the load off of your finger tendons. It also gives an added layer of protection between you and that sandpaper-sharpened edge!

Spoken like someone who has sliced open a finger like me.....

[tsquare]

Originally Posted by tjiscooler

Do you really need a sanding block?? I used my bare hands and got a nice polish on the blade Im working on. I even used just my hand when i polished with the Flitz. If it makes it easier of has better results ill try it, please tell me you thoughts on this.

I'm trying my first restore and have tried using a pink eraser with sandpaper looped around it. You can carve them to any contour and they conform to contours nicely since they're soft. Much like the tools from Woodcraft, only cheaper It would be nice to find a way to extend a grip into the palm to ease the strain on the fingers though. Perhaps someone might explore this before I get to it?

I've also used the bare eraser on the end of a pencil to polish with compound. Nice thing is that some erasers already have a light abrasive in them too.

I'm not aiming at a mirror finish. I kinda like the satin look. Plus it'll hide the small scratches that might be more prominent on a mirror finish.

For what it's worth

[tjiscooler]

I tried one of those erasers too, it was hard to get the paper to stay on tho, the water help it adhere a bit but i think ill try it again with a clip so secure it.

[Bruno]

After sanding for 10 hours on a blade using only your fingers, you'll probably find that using a sanding block / stick / device is a good idea after all.

I switched from hand to stick when I started to get tendonitis.
Once I built my sanding stick, the tendonitis went away.

[tjiscooler]

I think ill try and make a sanding stick. The problem is that I like to feel whats going on while i sand...

[forrestp38829]

noob question, but how much pressure do you apply while sanding?