[Bruno]

Depends.

If I remove damage, then I sometimes use as much pressure as I think the razor can handle.
so a full wedge or quarter hollow is basically indestructable.
A full hollow is structurally weaker, so you'd use a lot less pressure.

As soon as I use higher grits (say 320 and upwards) I only use moderate pressure. I.e. enough to actually do something, but not pressing down to remove metal.
With higher grits you want an even finish, and that is easier with lighter pressure.

[kevint]

Originally Posted by onimaru55

WD-40 is great for sanding but if you prefer water or are allergic to petrochemicals a little bicarb soda in the water will prevent rust. It is used by Japanese sword polishers.

That's baking soda in the US, works perfectly.

[Hawkeye5]

Ahh, a new piece of information. I didn't know that.

[icedog]

Here is a set of contoured rubber sanding blocks that is very useful and reasonably priced:
Contour Sanding Pads - Woodcraft.com

There are various self adhesive sandpapers available that are perfect for these blocks:
NORTON 5" Blank PSA Disk Roll - Woodcraft.com

PORTER-CABLE Stikit Sandpaper System - Woodcraft.com

[onimaru55]

Originally Posted by Jimbo

Thanks for the useful info in these posts guys. I was wondering, is it complete overkill to continue on with the micro-mesh pads after the 2k paper? Is there anything to be gained by continuing up the progression to say an 8k micro-mesh pad? I've always just stopped at 1.2k as this is the highest grit I can get physically from my local shops. But there's a guy on Australian ebay selling micro-mesh pads from 2k up to 8k - worth it, or just a waste of time?

James.

Micro Mesh pads are amazing. Problem is the price but they do outlast ordinary papers.
The grit size is actually bigger than labelled ie 3200 is around 1200 US Grit but the scratch pattern is nothing like 1200. It is an even smooth pattern with no odd size scratches as with ordinary wetndri.
Don't have any razor pics but this is a macro shot of a tanto I finished with 12000 Micromesh = to 2micron. No buffing.

[Bruno]

Nice pic. I was just going to ask if that was layered steel because of the texture of the steel. But then I noticed it was a tanto so I guess that answers my question.
Really nice looking steel.

[onimaru55]

Originally Posted by Bruno

Nice pic. I was just going to ask if that was layered steel because of the texture of the steel. But then I noticed it was a tanto so I guess that answers my question.
Really nice looking steel.

Thanx Bruno.
Alas, not a folded blade. The finish was a bit of a surprise for me as its actually 5160 monosteel by Kris Cutlery.
It was just a fluke on my part as I was trying to bring out the hamon which is notoriously hard to do with 5160. I think I gave it over 20 vinegar baths and as it showed up so did the alloy banding. I think there are a few steels that will do this if etched. 1095 comes to mind. It's a pleasant anomaly but might be dependent on how homogenous or not the steel is.

BTW Cool thread with great ideas.

[Buckler]

Could you add a pic with it in hand and next to a razor? (for size) Just to get it clear befor i go make one. How thick is the leather, how did you stick it on? Would normal superglue work?

Thankyou very much for your helpful post.
+Buckler

[onimaru55]

Originally Posted by Buckler

Could you add a pic with it in hand and next to a razor? (for size) Just to get it clear befor i go make one. How thick is the leather, how did you stick it on? Would normal superglue work?

Thankyou very much for your helpful post.
+Buckler

Sounds like you're talking paddle strops Simon.
Think you might be in the wrong thread but I'll have a go at an answer. 4mm and Shoe repair glue.

[Buckler]

Sorry Os, but im in the write place
He has leather on the end of his device. Just wondering how big the end is. But i think the glue idea might work. But would normal super glue work? I already have some of that, not sure if it would hold leather.
Thanks mate
Love to hear from you Bruno when you get a chance.
+Buckler

[onimaru55]

My bad

This is me zipping it

[burningdarkness]

I've got a small question on bringing the blade to a mirror finish. Will I be able to do this using sand paper, Maas, and elbow grease, or will I need some sort of other tool to buff the blade?

[Bruno]

You can do it completely by hand, but then you best handsand to as high a grit as possible.
You can get sandpaper up to 2000 grit, and then there are the micro mesh pads that go up to several tens of thousands of grit.

Using that, you can do it by hand.
But personally I use a dremel with a felt wheel at 7000 rpm with chromium oxide compound.
after the 2000 grit stage it takes me only half an hour to put a nice mirror polish on a blade.

[burningdarkness]

Thank you very much. I think I need to find myself a good dremel for a good price. Any suggestions on dremel and accessories I would need for restoring a razor?

[gssixgun]

Originally Posted by burningdarkness

Thank you very much. I think I need to find myself a good dremel for a good price. Any suggestions on dremel and accessories I would need for restoring a razor?

Insert warning here:

Make sure you practice the Dremel techniques on a razor of no value hmmm a Zeepk would be good here.... Dremels will snap a hollow ground blade faster than you have ever seen, if you make one small error.... The wheel must always be spinning away from the edge, never ever toward it, the heel and toe are also danger areas as the wheel can wrap around them rather quickly... Always, always, wear safety glasses....
Just when you start thinking you know what you're doing with one, is when the trouble starts ....
I would move from a Zeepk, to a full heavy wedge, and finally try it on a real hollow ground razor.... JMHO here of course...

[burningdarkness]

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Insert warning here:

Make sure you practice the Dremel techniques on a razor of no value hmmm a Zeepk would be good here.... Dremels will snap a hollow ground blade faster than you have ever seen, if you make one small error.... The wheel must always be spinning away from the edge, never ever toward it, the heel and toe are also danger areas as the wheel can wrap around them rather quickly... Always, always, wear safety glasses....
Just when you start thinking you know what you're doing with one, is when the trouble starts ....
I would move from a Zeepk, to a full heavy wedge, and finally try it on a real hollow ground razor.... JMHO here of course...

Thanks much. I actually picked up a copy of Bill Ellis' straight razor restoration DVD and I've been working through that. I've got safety glasses and a respirator - better safe than sorry.

[Detach]

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Dremels will snap a hollow ground blade faster than you have ever seen, if you make one small error.... The wheel must always be spinning away from the edge, never ever toward it, the heel and toe are also danger areas as the wheel can wrap around them rather quickly... Always, always, wear safety glasses....

I finished my first blade restore and it was a full hollow...i followed your advice but i also wore a thick leather jacket, leather gloves, and a paintball mask incase the blade snapped and SHTF...LUCKILY i made it though that with out a problem but then i got careless and sliced the side of my index finger while wiping it down

anyway this thread was VERY helpful thank you to every one who contributed their 2cents...it added up to a million bucks :-)

[JED58]

I am a newbie to the straight razor craft and would like to clean up / polish my razors. I worked in environmental labs for years and had to to polish stainless steel parts on Mass Spectrometers. Our source for aluminum oxide powder and abrasive papers up to 2000 grit was Scientific Instrument Services. There web site is www.sisweb.com (hopefully this gets you to directly to their website - I'm pretty much a rookie getting around in forums as well). The abrasives are in the Cleaning section of the "Supplies by Category".

Some of the Mass Spec. parts required a mirror finish and the 2000 paper was my best route to go. They didn't have the micro pads at that time. I don't know if you can use there abrasive papers wet - I never did; usually soaked parts in water then sonicated in acetone to remove all water. If one of our expert members can check this out it might become a valuable source for these products. If it already is a source kindly disregard.

Jim

[Earthdawn]

How can you tell when your really at the point where you should move up in grit ?

Obviously I have found myself doing this

[hoglahoo]

I move up when ALL the pits and rust that I want out are gone