[Walt]

Hi. I recently made a set of scales using maple which I treated with aqua fortis to bring up the
contrast in the grain. I hand-rubbed numerous coats of boiled linseed oil (Wahkon Bay Tru-Coat)
on the scales over a week's time. The day after I assembled the razor I found all of the metal
encased by the wood had started to tarnish. Over the past three days I have applied 12 coats of
super glue to the inside flats of the scales in an attempt to seal off the gasses. I really didn't want
the glossy sheen of the acrylic coating, preferring the warmth of the oil finish. My question is:
Is there some way to neutralize the nitric acid after it has been applied and heated and before the
oil finish is applied? Any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks - Walt

[The Topher]

Maybe someone knows a way but I don't. Sounds like letting it cure for a long time would probably be the best with this one.

[0o.Mark.o0]

From high school chemistry, bases neutralize acids. Maybe baking soda (dry or dissolved in water)?

[floppyshoes]

A very light solution of sodium hydroxide should work. Given that you can't go to the store and ask for NaOH as if it were a bar of soap, I feel it will save you time to mention that oven cleaner (liquid spray) is usually a strong NaOH solution. Mix a half teaspoon into a cup of water and spray the wood with it. This MAY darken the wood a little or alter the color of some exotics, but it will neutralize the nitric acid and not significantly affect the wood's structure.

[bevansmw]

Common household baking soda is a base that lots use to neutralize acid, should be pretty easy to come across.

Just as a note acid is neutralized by a reaction between the acid and the base leaving water and a salt from the reaction. In a solution the salt will precipitate out (forms a solid and falls to the bottom) not sure what it'll do with the wood scales, shouldn't be much acid on them though I wouldn't imagine and I guess any salt should clean off easily if you aren't worried about getting them wet.

[Walt]

Thank you all for your input. I will try both the baking soda and the oven cleaner on some
scraps of maple and then subject them to close contact with a broken razor to see how well
the aqua fortis is neutralized and whether or not it effects the contrast in the grain. Hopefully
this will solve the problem. Thanks again.

Regards - Walt

[spazola]

I would begin by raising the grain on the wood by wetting and drying then sanding it a few times. I would then color the wood using the acid, and then flush the wood with LOTS of water. I would then let the wood dry and out gas for a few weeks. Then I would use a weak base such as baking soda to neutralize whatever is left.

The finish however you want.

Charlie

[JohnP]

If you still want to try NaOH Sodium Hydroxide or similar, go to the drain cleaning section of the local supermarket, often you can find the stuff in small white plastic containers.
The type I've usually seen is "Red Devil Lye". It's the pure stuff, has a cartoon devil on the front of it.
My grandmother even used it to make some basic soap once when I was young.


John P.