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Old 07-26-2008, 07:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Default Is there a point at which it is pointless?

A friend gave me a razor that is in pretty bad shape. Not sure of the age, but it is a Royal " Keen Kutter". There is significant pitting along the blade, and rust along the spine. The shank is also quite rusted. I was just wondering if it was possible to restore. I definitly do no have the skills to do it, so any reccomendations would be great.

I can post pics later.


Thank you


Forrest
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Old 07-26-2008, 07:28 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
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Without pictures there is no way to tell really. I've seen some pretty bad razors that the folks on this board have cleaned up to look very nice.


Bob
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Old 07-26-2008, 07:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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Like Bob just said pics would help, the pitting is the scary thing, rust is not near as bad as the pitting...It also has a lot to do with the grind itself, heavier grinds = more steel to play with..... I have taken some wedges and 1/4 wedges back from the "pits" of Hates, (pun intended) where as the full hollows and hollows can't be pushed as far.....
The pics will help a lot......
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Old 07-26-2008, 07:57 PM   #4 (permalink)
 
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great guys I dont get off work until 11pm, but I will post pics as soon as I get home.


Thanks for the quick replies.

I am 2 shaves into my 100 with my dovo. I am waiting on a strop to come in. Is it ok to strop with a newspaper, maybe once? And could someone explain the procedure. I just dont wat to shave again without stropping.
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Old 07-26-2008, 08:12 PM   #5 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by forrestp38829 View Post
Is it ok to strop with a newspaper, maybe once? And could someone explain the procedure. I just dont wat to shave again without stropping.
You can't hurt the razor by stropping on newspaper. Just lay the newspaper on a flat surface and lay the razor flat on the paper (both spine and edge touching) and move the razor in the direction of the spine (spine leading, edge trailing) with a very light touch and absolutely no pressure other than the weight of the razor. When you get to the end of the paper, roll the blade on the spine (not the edge) with your fingers and push it in the other direction. Each up and back is one lap. Do 50 laps before each shave. Make sure not to lift the spine off the paper.
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Old 07-27-2008, 07:04 AM   #6 (permalink)
 
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Here are the pictures, tell me if you think it is worth it, the scales are broken, but the edge will still shave arm hair after 50 years, maybe more. Bought it at a yard sale for a buck.


All opinions are welcome.


Thanks,

Forrest

BTW, I know its not what you guys are used to but I just got done WTG and XTG with my DOVO Timor BLue Steel and my face feels great.

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Old 07-27-2008, 07:17 AM   #7 (permalink)
 
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I've restored things that were WAAAY worse than that.
And in your case, the badness is on the spine where there is room for removing the damage.

the one thing you need to check is if the pitting is deep or not, because that will decide whether you can keep the etching or not.
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Old 07-27-2008, 07:46 AM   #8 (permalink)
 
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WHAt type of dremel attachment do you recommend for removing the rust and tarnish? I am quite skilled with the dremel I frag corals on the side.
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Old 07-27-2008, 10:04 AM   #9 (permalink)
 
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Handsanding howto

A belt grinder is not a real option because the razor is hollow ground, so handsanding is your best bet imo.
If you really want to use a dremel, use flap wheels. Not drum wheels.
Removing a measurable amount of metal with a drum wheel is going to leave visible traces.

But the dremel flaps only come in low grit, so you'll have to do the high grit sanding by hand anyway unless perhaps if you use cutting and polishing compounds. But so far I haven't played with those.
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Old 07-27-2008, 06:13 PM   #10 (permalink)
 
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thanks, so much...I guess i better get started on a custom sanding block.
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Old 07-27-2008, 06:20 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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The blade looks like it will restore just fine you might/probably lose the etching....

WARNING!!! RRD (razor restoration disorder) is as addictive, if not more addictive, than RAD (razor acquisition disorder)
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Old 07-27-2008, 07:12 PM   #12 (permalink)
 
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Well, I am selling off my reefing equipment and livestock, so maybe my wife will be merciful.
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Old 07-28-2008, 05:19 AM   #13 (permalink)
 
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Bad News, one of my friends said he could fix the blade with a dremel, I stopped him halfway and this is what i have.

I am asking someone here for a quote to restore this blade. You can PM it to me.

Is it even worth it?

I dont care about keeping the logo on the blade, just on the shank.






Any advice? I am wiling to ship it out.

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Old 07-28-2008, 05:36 AM   #14 (permalink)
 
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Ouch!!

If your getting rid of livestock maybe you have a couple castration bands you can introduce your friend to

I would say start at 220 - 300 grit and work your way up. You probably wont get all those marks out but at least he didn't chip the edge. It may or may not be pretty but it should still shave really well when your done.
Theres a Hand Sanding howto here somewhere, if you search you should find it

Bob
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Old 07-28-2008, 05:42 AM   #15 (permalink)
 
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Thanks, Pal
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Old 07-28-2008, 12:15 PM   #16 (permalink)
 
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That was a drum wheel, wasn't it?
I hate to be the one to say 'I told you so...' but

Yes, you can get rid of those marks, but it will take a LOT of sanding, and you'll deform the razor.

The way baby looks, the only feasible way would be to find someone with a belt grinder and 1" or 2" contact wheels, and have them grind away the damage.
It will be tricky, and a lot of work but it is possible.
Then again, it would be more expensive than what the razor is worth.

My advice: use that one as a practise razor to try new techniques on, and forget about restoring it.
I don't mind spending dozens of hours on a special razor, but this one is just not worth it imo. Not anymore.
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Old 07-28-2008, 03:23 PM   #17 (permalink)
 
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practice razor it is then, carpal tunnel here I come!!
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Old 07-28-2008, 05:19 PM   #18 (permalink)
 
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Before you shoot yourself, shoot your friend! BTW, You asked if there was a point where it is pointless, I now believe you are there.
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Old 07-28-2008, 06:04 PM   #19 (permalink)
 
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Don't waste your time "practicing" on a razor that is now toast.

Handsanding is a bitch, but worth it for a razor that you will be able to use in the end.

As you also found out, there is no good "shortcut" to restoring a razor. Your original razor was really not very far gone at all. Some handsanding would have easily brought it back to top form.

Better luck next time!
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Old 07-28-2008, 06:42 PM   #20 (permalink)
 
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at one point, alex(philadelphia) was looking for some wedges to regrind. maybe you can work a deal with him to see about 'practicing' on a hollow grind. you can get those out, but it will be tough and a pain. about the best opetion is to try to reduce them without a regrind. good luck, and in anycase, you should still get a good shave from it.

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