[mikeyr]

We gotta lotta smart peepul here - anybody got any ideas for getting an EXACT image of the etch on blades? Preferably something that most anybody could do? I'm thinking I might be able to put it back on after sanding, polishing, etc, possibly even the gold ones, but haven't figgered out the first part. Any Photoshop experts? Would need a black and white image of the etch, exact size. Ideas?
Mike

[c_kyle]

If you can build a graphic of the original etch, you can print it on vinyl, cut out the image, and sand blast it. That's how glass etchers do it. The vinyl could possibly be used with an etching solution, but I'm not sure how that is done.

[chief]

Originally Posted by c_kyle

That's how glass etchers do it. The vinyl could possibly be used with an etching solution, but I'm not sure how that is done.

I'm a glass-etcher, but the vinyl won't stand the acids used for this purpose. The vinyl is used for the sandblasting of the glass.
The etching is done with acids. Kind of screenprinting with acids.

[c_kyle]

I wasn't sure about the etching with chemicals. I think a reverse etch might work, though, leaving only the design/letters/etc covered by the vinyl, and doing a vinegar etch.

I'm thinking about doing some sand blasting on wood scales, like you see on some tobacco pipes.

[chief]

Originally Posted by c_kyle

I'm thinking about doing some sand blasting on wood scales, like you see on some tobacco pipes.

that should work just fine... If I ever get a nice blank blade I'll add a personalised sandblast drawing to it, should be cool.

[mikeyr]

I guess I wasn't too clear - I think I can do the etch part all right, I would like to be able to put the design back on after refinishing the blade. What I haven't figured out is how to get an exact copy of it on paper before I start sanding & polishing. I have tried the old engraver's tricks for duplicating designs, but these etches are too shallow to hold the transfer mediums. I'm thinking it would probably have to be photographic?..............Mike

[chief]

Originally Posted by mikeyr

I'm thinking it would probably have to be photographic?

that would be the most accurate method I guess. Maybe the image will be a bit proportionaly disfigured because of the concave-ness (if that actually is a word) of the blade.

[clrobert60]

Originally Posted by mikeyr

... I'm thinking it would probably have to be photographic?..............Mike

Try scanning it. Then if it's a little distorted you could play with it in PhotoShop or whatever editing program you have access to.

[RideCoz]

I would try rubbing a pencil lead on the etch. Try to get a lot of graphite on it.

The rough area of the etch should hold graphite while it should blow/brush off of the smooth areas.

Then try making a rubbing on a piece of paper and fill it in by hand. It may take a couple of tries, but this way you can match the contours of the blade.

If the paper doesn't work, you may try an adhesive to get more of the graphite. A sticky note, or rubber cement on a piece of paper.

Also an alternative to the pencil you may try powdered graphite lubricant to get more on there.

[Seraphim]

Originally Posted by clrobert60

Try scanning it. Then if it's a little distorted you could play with it in PhotoShop or whatever editing program you have access to.

+1

Scan it. Should be close enough.

[Chris L]

Originally Posted by mikeyr

I guess I wasn't too clear - I think I can do the etch part all right, I would like to be able to put the design back on after refinishing the blade. What I haven't figured out is how to get an exact copy of it on paper before I start sanding & polishing. I have tried the old engraver's tricks for duplicating designs, but these etches are too shallow to hold the transfer mediums. I'm thinking it would probably have to be photographic?..............Mike

You and I think alike. I've been hatching the same idea for about six months now. I've thought about coating the blade with ink and pressing white paper in the hollow leaving a reverse image. Then, scan away and clean up using a photoshop type program. Then, make your neg/etching stencil and you're good to go.

Chris L

[Seraphim]

Some possible info here?
The Making of a MINTY W&B Meatchopper.

[chief]

Originally Posted by Chris L

You and I think alike. I've been hatching the same idea for about six months now. I've thought about coating the blade with ink and pressing white paper in the hollow leaving a reverse image. Then, scan away and clean up using a photoshop type program. Then, make your neg/etching stencil and you're good to go.

Chris L

in that case I think a digital photograph loaded into a vector based program (like Adobe Illustrator) would be more convenient, and less messy.

[PonderingTurtle]

I remember reading part of a book on knife making that was mostly about this. The author coated the knives in wax and then when warm removed the wax from the design and then eched the blades in strong acid.

[marosell]

I ordered a kit on the internet once to etch the VIN# of my car onto the corner of each of my windows; if someone wanted to steal my car, they'd have to replace every window to remove the vin numbers .

I gave the company my vin number and they sent me a package with the acid-compund, and precision cut vinyl stickers with the vin# cut out. Directions were to stick the sticker on the window, apply the stuff, let sit for 20 minutes or until dry, and remove the sticker and wipe it clean. It worked flawlessly, but I'm thinking that the acid used for glass is different then the strength you would need for steel.

[Russel Baldridge]

There are many ways to etch metal, search for blade etching or electro etching or acid etching on google and you'll find more info than you ever wanted.

I recently built an electro etcher from parts found at Radioshack, thanks to a tutorial by knifemaker Chris Crawford: http://www.chriscrawfordknives.com/C...al/Default.asp

It works pretty well, better than an Etch-O-Matic I had been using. Fun to build too, if your into DIY stuff.

[PonderingTurtle]

Originally Posted by marosell

I ordered a kit on the internet once to etch the VIN# of my car onto the corner of each of my windows; if someone wanted to steal my car, they'd have to replace every window to remove the vin numbers .

I gave the company my vin number and they sent me a package with the acid-compund, and precision cut vinyl stickers with the vin# cut out. Directions were to stick the sticker on the window, apply the stuff, let sit for 20 minutes or until dry, and remove the sticker and wipe it clean. It worked flawlessly, but I'm thinking that the acid used for glass is different then the strength you would need for steel.

Etching glass with acid at home seems a fairly scary concept.

This is because to my knowledge only hydrofluric acid will etch glass. That stuff is insanely hazardous, small spills result in limb amputations.

But it seems that the etching creams do not etch in that fashion.

Do not confuse using etching creme with traditional acid etching, which is done with hydrofluoric acid. This is an extremely dangerous acid and should NEVER be used by anyone who has not had extensive training. We have been personally acquainted with 3 people who have come in contact with only a drop or two of this acid and who have almost lost fingers or hands as a result. In addition, it is classified as a hazardous material and must be disposed of in a waste site for hazardous materials, a very expensive proposition.

link

[Russel Baldridge]

Hahaha, I etched glass with HF acid in a chemistry class when I was in highschool! The teacher said to be very careful not to get it on us but didn't mention amputations!

Good thing no one got hurt, I wonder if she knew it was that toxic?!?!

[PonderingTurtle]

Originally Posted by Russel Baldridge

Hahaha, I etched glass with HF acid in a chemistry class when I was in highschool! The teacher said to be very careful not to get it on us but didn't mention amputations!

Good thing no one got hurt, I wonder if she knew it was that toxic?!?!

It is not exactly toxic. What it does is if you get any on you, it goes to the bone and disolves them, even if washed off.

SO small amounts on the skinn cause serious bone loss in the area, and that is why amputations are common.

I am amazed that high school students would do this.