|
 |
08-14-2008, 02:42 PM
|
#1 (permalink)
|
Status: Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 50
Thanks: 8
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
|
Flattening scale wood
I am making my 2nd set of scales and I am using some 1/8" X 1.5" X 6" peices of wood that I got cut for me. They has some band saw marks on them so I sanded the heck out of them to get them smooth. Is there any easier way to do this. It took forever and the peices aren't perfectly level. Can I use a hand plane for something like this. Never used one before. Is the wood to small already to plane?
Thanks!!
|
|
|
08-14-2008, 02:51 PM
|
#2 (permalink)
|
Status: Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 134
Thanks: 10
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
|
Where they flat when you started?
There are certainly planes that could be used, but they might be small custom planes like those used to make violins.
|
|
|
08-14-2008, 03:01 PM
|
#3 (permalink)
|
Status: Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Burkburnett TX
Posts: 293
Thanks: 6
Thanked 38 Times in 19 Posts
|
I would make the wood flat on sand paper. I would put a whole sheet of sandpaper on a flat surface and move the wood on top of it. I would start with a coarse grit such as 60 or 80 and then go up through the grits to 220.
You can use a hand plane, but I think sandpaper would work better if you are not familiar with using a plane. If you do use a plane make sure it is sharp and pay attention to the way the grain runs. I would put a larger plane in the vise upside down and move the wood over the blade.
I have a numerous planes but would most likely do this with sandpaper in my own shop.
Charlie
Last edited by spazola; 08-14-2008 at 03:10 PM.
|
|
|
08-14-2008, 03:35 PM
|
#4 (permalink)
|
Status: Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 550
Thanks: 39
Thanked 73 Times in 60 Posts
|
I have had exactly the same problem with my wood.
I tried the first time using a dremmel with a sandpaper drum. The wood looked like a roller coaster.
I've tried by hand and decided it was taking too long and things keep moving around.
Finally, I used a palm sander with a low grade grit to remove some bulk and then finished by hand.
Next time, I will buy wood that is planed a little thinner. I think the trick might be to plane or sand the big piece of wood before you cut the scales.
|
|
|
08-14-2008, 03:38 PM
|
#5 (permalink)
|
Status: Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 50
Thanks: 8
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
|
OK, maybe sandpaper is the best way to go. Maybe I just need a sanding block and something to hold the wood because all that sanding by hand sanded some of my thumb off too  I just put the sandpaper on a flat surface and ran the wood accross it a million times. Any easier set up to do this? Put wood in vise and use sanding block?
|
|
|
08-14-2008, 03:49 PM
|
#6 (permalink)
|
Status: Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Tracy, Ca
Posts: 421
Thanks: 19
Thanked 45 Times in 28 Posts
|
Belt sander.
__________________
"There is no distinctly American criminal class except Congress." -Mark Twain
Finally, we have found a way to implement welfare for the rich while reducing it for the poor. God bless America!
"Political Correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical, liberal minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."
A father carries pictures where his money used to be.
|
|
|
08-14-2008, 03:51 PM
|
#7 (permalink)
|
Status: newb, bub nob forb longb
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: dfw-garland
Posts: 402
Thanks: 14
Thanked 16 Times in 13 Posts
|
sandpaper sheet on flat surface. use double sided tape on your fingertips to grab the scale. rub with vigor. this is my belt sander untill i get one.
vgod
__________________
never regret something that made you smile!
word of the day/week/month- funambulist
3x3x3 00:37:25
2x2 00:32:17
5x5x5 12:43:13
|
|
|
08-14-2008, 03:56 PM
|
#8 (permalink)
|
Status: Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 50
Thanks: 8
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
|
ohhh good idea on the tape.
|
|
|
08-14-2008, 06:27 PM
|
#9 (permalink)
|
Status: Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 134
Thanks: 10
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquanin
OK, maybe sandpaper is the best way to go. Maybe I just need a sanding block and something to hold the wood because all that sanding by hand sanded some of my thumb off too  I just put the sandpaper on a flat surface and ran the wood accross it a million times. Any easier set up to do this? Put wood in vise and use sanding block?
|
A file or rasp might be a better choice, they would be flat and remove material pretty fast.
|
|
|
08-14-2008, 07:17 PM
|
#10 (permalink)
|
Status: Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: OKC
Posts: 509
Thanks: 9
Thanked 23 Times in 23 Posts
|
Sandpaper is ok but it's not a plane. Often you'll get uneven abrasion of the late and early growth. As long as you don't expect invisible glue joints sandpaper on flat substrate will do.
When I have to lap and dimension a thin small piece of metal, a spacer for example I'll glue a handle to it, just a stub to hold onto. Or I don't but it's easier on the fingers to do it. Starting with a file (a large one) resting on bench, propped up on my chest while sitting is usual, or whatever, drag it across- progression of finer cut files to progression of sandpaper. For scales or to avoid purchases you could use paper only.
Since the scales are not very long it is probably best to turn the plane over and carefully drag it over the blade, you can still snip the ends with wrong pressure point, using the plane in the normal fashion it is very easy to snip, and never get the thing flat.
It's also rather easy to get your finger or fingernail involved in the cut, I usually don't but it's not a bad idea to affix a small grip with white glue, rice glue, double sided tape maybe... something easily reversed cleaned off. you can push or pull it over the blade with that, while the other hand applies some directed down force. easy as pie.
|
|
|
08-14-2008, 07:27 PM
|
#11 (permalink)
|
Status: Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Central California
Posts: 192
Thanks: 6
Thanked 11 Times in 10 Posts
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevint
Sandpaper is ok but it's not a plane. Often you'll get uneven abrasion of the late and early growth. As long as you don't expect invisible glue joints sandpaper on flat substrate will do.
When I have to lap and dimension a thin small piece of metal, a spacer for example I'll glue a handle to it, just a stub to hold onto. Or I don't but it's easier on the fingers to do it. Starting with a file (a large one) resting on bench, propped up on my chest while sitting is usual, or whatever, drag it across- progression of finer cut files to progression of sandpaper. For scales or to avoid purchases you could use paper only.
Since the scales are not very long it is probably best to turn the plane over and carefully drag it over the blade, you can still snip the ends with wrong pressure point, using the plane in the normal fashion it is very easy to snip, and never get the thing flat.
It's also rather easy to get your finger or fingernail involved in the cut, I usually don't but it's not a bad idea to affix a small grip with white glue, rice glue, double sided tape maybe... something easily reversed cleaned off. you can push or pull it over the blade with that, while the other hand applies some directed down force. easy as pie.
|
HUH?  Sorry, but I got lost here.
__________________
Danny
As Iron Sharpens Iron, So One Man Sharpens Another.
Proverbs 27:17
|
|
|
08-14-2008, 09:10 PM
|
#12 (permalink)
|
Status: Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: OKC
Posts: 509
Thanks: 9
Thanked 23 Times in 23 Posts
|
what do you mean.  Did you read it twice
point to it and i'll reword
|
|
|
08-14-2008, 09:39 PM
|
#13 (permalink)
|
Status: RAD enabler
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Stratford, CT
Posts: 667
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
|
Anyone considered a Nicholson Cabinetmaker's rasp? They're not cheap but they'll remove stock very quickly and you can get something pretty flat with a rasp. And, of course, you can finish with some cabinet scrapers if you know how to use them.... or sandpaper.
|
|
|
08-14-2008, 10:54 PM
|
#14 (permalink)
|
Status: Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Burkburnett TX
Posts: 293
Thanks: 6
Thanked 38 Times in 19 Posts
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by PapaBull
Anyone considered a Nicholson Cabinetmaker's rasp? They're not cheap but they'll remove stock very quickly and you can get something pretty flat with a rasp. And, of course, you can finish with some cabinet scrapers if you know how to use them.... or sandpaper.
|
+1
I love my pattern makers rasps and scrapers. They are the great shaping and smoothing tools. They are worth learning to use and wil last a lifetime.
Charlie
|
|
|
|
The Following User Says Thank You to spazola For This Useful Post:
|
|
08-15-2008, 01:59 PM
|
#15 (permalink)
|
Status: Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Burkburnett TX
Posts: 293
Thanks: 6
Thanked 38 Times in 19 Posts
|
Check out how the guy flattens the bone on this website. I think sand paper is the best alternative unless you buy more tools.
http://www.jatagan.eu/_soubory/tutorials/koci1EN.htm
Charlie
|
|
|
|
The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to spazola For This Useful Post:
|
|
08-15-2008, 09:56 PM
|
#16 (permalink)
|
Status: Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Michigan
Posts: 128
Thanks: 6
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
|
I am in the middle of making my first set of scales and I cut a chunk of amboyna burl for the scales on the band saw and I also have the marks from the blade. It is awful to try and even out, but I am doing it on a piece of sandpaper mounted to a piece of granite tiling. It seems to work well.
|
|
|
 |
| Thread Tools |
|
|
| Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
 |
|
|
|