Replacing scales?

[pcm]

Hi,

One of the razors that I have, a Filarmonica, has a broken scale that I'd like to give a go at trying to create a replacement. What material can/should I use, and where would I buy it from?

I want to take it on as a project, as although it is not a unique or special razor by any means, it has some history for me. I bought it at an antique store for like $20, and it had a horrible, huge, nick (or maybe crater ) on the edge, and was rusty.

Through this forum, many years ago, I worked on resurrecting the blade and getting to a very usable/shaveable edge. Not my best shaver, but it was a competent shaver. I was very proud, as it was the first time I had a "challenging" blade to deal with (most were new or used blades that had normal wear - only had one Saunders wedge that was a challenge, but not like this).

At the time, there was a crack, right at the pin on the blade side, so I knew it was at risk for failure. It finally broke, so I set it aside for a while (not enough oil on it, so it has some surface rust on the spine that I'll need to address).

I've never taken on this type of thing, but I'm pretty handy, retired now, and willing to give it a go (no loss/no foul, if it doesn't work out). I'm hoping to just put some plain scales on it (nothing fancy), and use the existing ones as a template. I'd be curious as to how to remove the pins and reinstall (or where to get replacements).

Any thoughts? Thanks in advance!

 

[RHensley]

Check out Maggard restoration supplies. They have the scales and scale material plus the pins and collars. Then Check all the Videos on you tube on makeing and replaceing scales. If it's not a special razor they have a set of in expensive scales ready for a blade for not much money.

 

[pcm]

Check out Maggard restoration supplies. They have the scales and scale material plus the pins and collars. Then Check all the Videos on you tube on makeing and replaceing scales. If it's not a special razor they have a set of in expensive scales ready for a blade for not much money.

Thanks! I’ll check them out, and search for some videos.

 

[RHensley]

Good. Those inexpensive scales do pretty good unless you want something fancy

 

[pcm]

I went to https://www.maggardrazors.com/. They were out of stock of the black pre-made scales, and I wasn't too fond of the other colors, so I decided to buy a pair of blanks and will give it a try. I probably only need one, but I got two, in case I mess up or want to do any other blades in the future.

Grabbed spinning kit. Started looking at videos. I have a belt sander and band saw, so I think I can make it work out.

Thanks for the suggestions!

 

[RHensley]

I went to https://www.maggardrazors.com/. They were out of stock of the black pre-made scales, and I wasn't too fond of the other colors, so I decided to buy a pair of blanks and will give it a try. I probably only need one, but I got two, in case I mess up or want to do any other blades in the future.

Grabbed spinning kit. Started looking at videos. I have a belt sander and band saw, so I think I can make it work out.

Thanks for the suggestions!

Sounds like you have a plan. Keep us informed and a photo

 

[pcm]

Will do! Hoping to resurrect this Filarmonica razor over the next month or so.

 

[pcm]

After a huge delay by USPS, I finally got the scale blanks today. Will work on creating a set of scales, over the next few weeks, as I get time.

One on the resin blanks is quite a bit thicker than the other. Should I try to sand it down to make them the same thickness?

I did clean up the blade, removed rust, sanded and polished, and then put on an edge. Seems pretty good (hard to shave without scales that I'm use to).

 

[RHensley]

I would not shave with it until it has scales. Tape the edge so you can use it to lay out your scales. Yes I would make them the same thickness. There are some good informative video on you tube

 

[drmoss_ca]

Agree that both should be the same thickness (and I wonder what anyone thinks they are doing if they sell them as uneven pairs?) Once the thicker one is thinned down, it's helpful to join the two scales together, inner surface to inner surface, using double sided tape, and sand the edges and corners. Having them stuck together makes it easier to get them symmetrical, and also makes it less likely that you accidentally snap one of them when sanding it unsupported.

 

[pcm]

I would not shave with it until it has scales. Tape the edge so you can use it to lay out your scales. Yes I would make them the same thickness. There are some good informative video on you tube

It was just a test shave, to see if I really could get a good edge on the blade, before I go through the effort to make scales. I had purchased this razor, with a badly damaged edge and some rust, and had restored it, shaved about 20-30 times, before the scales broke. It sat for over a year, before I decided to try to see if I could do scales.

 

[pcm]

Agree that both should be the same thickness (and I wonder what anyone thinks they are doing if they sell them as uneven pairs?) Once the thicker one is thinned down, it's helpful to join the two scales together, inner surface to inner surface, using double sided tape, and sand the edges and corners. Having them stuck together makes it easier to get them symmetrical, and also makes it less likely that you accidentally snap one of them when sanding it unsupported.

When I bought the blanks, they had mentioned that the thickness varied, as does the pattern.I guess I was hoping that the pair of blanks would have been the same thickness.

The one is 4mm, the other is 6mm. The original scales are 2.58-2.66mm thick and the spacer is 1.89mm thick.

Each resin blank is 2" x 6", and could easily handle two scales. A few questions for those in the know on this...

1) Should I cut one blank in half, length wise, and use it for the pair, versus trying to sand the two blanks to the same thickness?

2) Should the final scale be closer to the 2.58-2.66mm thickness of the original (IOW should even that 4mm blank be sanded down some, before I start processing)?

I did see the double stick tape trick on a video and plan to do the same.

Thanks in advance.

 

[RHensley]

That sound good. Double side tape works but I've always used thick paper and glue. A shoe box works good and the scales can be seperated with water. The paper gets soaked and comes apart. The glue can be removed with Goo Gone. I've made several sets this way. If one of the scales is still good you can use it as a templet by tracing it on the new material. There is a video on you tube that shows all this. You'll find it gets to be a lot of fun.

 

[pcm]

That sound good. Double side tape works but I've always used thick paper and glue. A shoe box works good and the scales can be seperated with water. The paper gets soaked and comes apart. The glue can be removed with Goo Gone. I've made several sets this way. If one of the scales is still good you can use it as a templet by tracing it on the new material. There is a video on you tube that shows all this. You'll find it gets to be a lot of fun.

Thanks for the tip on the paper and glue. What kind of glue do you use?

One scale is perfectly fine, and yes, I plan on cheating and tracing.

 

[RHensley]

Most any glue will do. Just don't get the scales wet until you get ready to take them apart. Just make sure Goo Gone will remove it. If you have a belt sander it has to hold while sanding down one side to match the other. Tape I've found will move on you and not be aligned. That makes a big difference when you go to drill the hole for the pins. Save the wedge. It's easier to use the old wedge than make a new one.

 

[drmoss_ca]

1) Should I cut one blank in half, length wise, and use it for the pair, versus trying to sand the two blanks to the same thickness?

Only if you have a band saw, a very steady hand, and the scales are made of something that will be strong enough (and resist warping) when only a couple of millimeters thick. For your first time, I'd not try that. Since they are resin, they should be strong enough, but it's a lightweight material, and to have them 4mm thick at their thickest, with the edges well sanded (making them rather rounded when looked at end on) will be light enough to be comfortable to hold. If the job goes well, you can try the tricky stuff for your next razor!

 

[pcm]

Sorry, I wasn't real clear on what I was asking... I was asking if I should cut the 2"x6"x4mm blank, into two 1"x6"x4mm blanks, instead of sanding down the 2"x6"x6mm blank to have a pair of 2"x4"x4mm blanks?

Thanks for the advice that having it 4mm, will not be too thick, which was my second concern.

 

[drmoss_ca]

Sure, 1" wide scales will take care of a 5/8 razor, and probably a 6/8 razor. Measure carefully before trying it on a 7/8 razor! No need to be sanding ½" from each side of the scales.

 

[pcm]

Here's an update...

Took the blanks, tried double stick tape (and it held really well). Cut out, based on old scale as template, sanded with 40 (all I had on belt sander), 150, 220, 800, and 2000 & 3000 wet. Here's current look...




Will sand a bit more to remove some of the fine scratches.

Should I polish?

Need to drill, separate, add in the spacer from the original scales, and pin. They are thicker than the originals.

So far, I'm pretty happy with them (hoping I don't screw it up).

 

[drmoss_ca]

Looks pretty good to me! 3000 grit is probably smooth enough, but if you have a buffing wheel with some rouge on it why not?